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Dogajolo Toscano 2011 - Mighty Powerful and Inconsistent

Dogajolo Toscano 2011


According to the adage, lightning never strikes twice in the same place. Now, this doesn't seem like something verified by science. Lightning strikes wherever the clouds and Earth produce opposite electrical charges of equal strength, and the resulting electrostatic discharge occurs in the form of a bolt; lightning doesn't politely avoid specific spots in a form of lightning etiquette because another cloud's charge had hit the ground in that exact area at an earlier time. It will strike when and where it wants to.

But enough over-analyzing proverbs.

Two bottles of the same wine from the same vintage, while not producing electrical charges, should be consistent and not adhere to the adage's idea of variance. The wine should smell, look, and taste the same, regardless of the bottle from which it was poured.

This week's wine does not follow that rule.

Capineto's Dogajolo Toscano 2011 ($14.00) is a chameleon; each bottle contains a different experience, but this isn't necessarily a good thing, especially when one bottle is markedly better than the other. This review highlights the notes from the most recent bottle that was purchased in March 2014, and the differences between it and a February 2014 bottle are staggering.

The first wine was smooth, convoluted, mellow, fantastic.

This bottle falls short, sadly.

Brick in color, the nose highlights cherry candy, cloves, chocolate, mushrooms, roses, coffee, and plums. The palate showcases leather, earthy root vegetables, tomatoes, and smoke, with bitterness and wood tannins forefront. The finish is long, with prominent dried apricots and figs.

Grilled foods will pair nicely with it.

While certainly not a terrible drink, the recent bottle doesn't possess the finesse that was present in its twin. Which begs the question, which of the two was the standard? The mellow wine, or the bitter wine? If you see in in a store, pick up a bottle and find out for yourself.

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