A tuk-tuk full of saffron robed monks pass by the entrance to Ban Vilaylac. Their Wat is directly across the street. Appropriate location since Ben Vilaylac's potted garden entrance bridges centuries of traditional Vientiane and French colonial Laos cuisine.
The small dining room opens onto the narrow covered, potted-plant walled outdoor terrace of three tables. The walls are decorated with old musical instruments and folk art. The lighting is subdued, the weather warm and moist, several tables occupied, and the staff nowhere to be seen. A swift moving figure appears with steaming plates that she places at one table while nodding acknowledgement as to the choice of an outdoor table. It's five more minutes before this figure reappears (the co-owner of Ben Vilaylac whose husband/partner/chef is the kitchen), but that's just fine. Vientiane, on a pleasantly warm evening sitting in a Laotian Bistro, listening to crickets chirping, is not rushing anyone.
You need time to read the extensive menu of classic Lao cooking with sections for stir-fried fish, chicken and pork with a wide variety of sauces using lemon, phanang, Thai basil, lemongrass, ginger, lime, mushrooms, garlic, peppers both sweet and hot, peanuts and cashew nuts. Curries and soups with coconut, galangal, ginger, basil and lemongrass dominate another page while dishes of vegetable/herb/greens follow.
Frog is a Lao delicacy going back through the ages, a symbol of fertility. The Ben Vilaylac's crispy fried frog had a flavorful, lightly chili spice batter. Given the bistro atmosphere, eating the fried frog was akin to chicken wings in American cultures.
Stir-fry bamboo shoots, asparagus and plump shrimp was a classic in a fresh herb sauce with garlic while a medley of stir-fry vegetables and firm tofu was equally fresh with unknown blends of herbs and spices. All entrees come with sticky rice.
Cold Beer Lao is the beverage of choice by many to accompany most meals. Good wine is expensive since it's all imported. Whiskey is a good opening drink. Warm evenings, orchids, crickets, exotic indochine; a diner wants to keep the selections simple. The Ben Vilaylac will satisfy tastes while allowing you the time to slow down and make the evening a bistro event.
Ban Vilaylac Restaurant, off Th Chao Anjou, Vientiane, Laos, cell phone: (021) 222 049
Dinner for 2 with drinks will average US$20 to $25. Service will take time but the quality is worth the wait.
Comments