Paris, January 21st, 2014
Karl Lagerfeld is the king of couture and Chanel carries the crown well for his creations. Yves Saint Laurent may turn in his grave hearing these words, but he is. And he dominates the direction of couture week year after year with his off the wall introductions. He may be the only one who gets away with the things he does in this arena. This is couture after all. These are one of a kind creations and doing something that people may not like is risky, even under the fashion house of Chanel. He has put entire furry outfits on supermodels, he has donned "street girls", cowgirls, russian dolls, down the runway. Anything is expected from this fashion designer and visionary. He is always inspired by a specific source and this year it's a whole new level of trickle up. Lagerfeld is known to welcome a poor to rich style to the couture shows, applying art to his shows or surrounding them with it, and for providing the clothing that all women want to wear. So how does he do it all at once? We not only see the use of fanny packs, knee pads, and elbow pads often beaded to death or with one of a kind gorgeous french fabrics always garmented with matching fabrics to the outfits they're worn with, but we also have matching tennis shoes to go with each and every look this season. The show would have been all about those details if we hadn't seen such a play on the waist. Often with a Jackie O 50's neckline, the true waist is available for most of this season. You couldn't stare at the shoes for long before you noticed that the empire and true waist was prominent in most of the looks. Either accompanied with a matching skirt or crafted as a dress, the look IS the future. It was as though he cummerbund focused every look and for that Lagerfeld reason it is wear-able and lovable, sexy, and fresh. The color choices further added to the 90's affair with pretty and complimentary pastel combinations that make anyone who played with My Little Ponies wonder if one of our childhood friends helped design this collection. Considering that Cara Delevingne closed the show and she was born in 1992, that question may not be too far off. Karl Lagerfeld is constantly inspired by his surroundings and everywhere anyone in fashion goes, Delevingne is there these days. One must wonder what the women who can actually afford couture, often from at least two generations away from that, are thinking about these details. When the cummerbund was not in the picture, the dropped waist was appeal inspired by the 1920's was and it was a nice juxtaposition to the true waist. The curiosity is at an all time high as to which fashion trend setter, editor, celebrity, red carpet goddess is going to follow Chanel's Couture season this year and pull off these kicks with these waists. It will be interesting to see this concept hitting the streets, again, and with a little more class. Although while it does provide comfort and freedom for women everywhere, which we've fought for generations for, it can't help an over-trained fashion eye, stiletto brainwashed loving gal to become a little uneasy and queasy at the sheer sight of it. Why does fashion have to hurt us, fellow fashionistas? Will we enter an age of flat shoed fancy dress? Or will this be swept under the couture inspiration rug until we absolutely cannot stand the stilt walking any longer? However one sees this movement it's started a race and it will be interesting to see how and when and who will be at the finish line.
For more selected images from this collection visit: http://melrosenow.com/?p=1704