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Caterina's best Italian restaurant on WISN's A list, I disagree

I often drive by Caterina's, located at 91st and Oklahoma in West Allis, but have never stopped in, until last night (Feb. 6).  I was motivated to see how good Caterina's is since it is named the best Italian restaurant in the Milwaukee area for 2011 by WISN's A list.

The interior is pleasant, but somewhat outdated.  The walls and ceiling are white stucco with framed pictures of Mediteranean artifacts throughout.  What dates the place is the red indoor/outdoor carpeting and 70's-like furniture; my seat cushion was badly stained.

I was hoping to sit at the bar and order, however, there wasn't an open spot.  The host put me at a table for two in a corner away from everyone else; I felt like I was being quarantined.

Caterina's has their loyal customers;  everyone at the bar knew each other and people were often greeted by their first name when they walked through the door.

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My waitress was a sweet lady who reminded me of one of my mother's friends.  She was very attentive, informative about several specials and knew the food and wine menu very well.

Looking over the wine menu, the least expensive glass was priced at $7.  I chose the Sauvignon Blanc ($7.50), which was very good, it had the right balance of acidity, fruit and sweetness.

Caterina's includes an appetizer plate of antipasto, meats and cheese slices with every entree.  The antipasto was mix of fresh vegetables and chickpeas dressed with a light vinegarette, I liked it; the meats and cheese were average.

Next, came the bread, a major weakness of mine.  It was warm from the oven, tender in the middle with a crunchy, flakey crust, loved it.

Looking over the menu, most entrees were priced between $20-$40+ and included a choice between soup or salad plus one of either fries, baked potato or pasta with red or butter garlic sauce.  I asked if I could substitute veggies for the starch and was told I could, but it would cost an additional $4.50. 

I ordered the Petto Di Pollo Siciliano ($19.95), which is 'chicken breasts coated with seasoned bread crumbs and grated Romano cheese, sautéed and served with fresh green pepper and onions', with a salad and pasta with red sauce.  I asked for either light or fat-free salad dressing, no luck, so settled for the Italian vinegarette.

The salad came out quickly and consisted of lettuce, blue cheese crumbles, red onion and tomato - nothing spectacular.  The dressing was a little too acidic and burned my throat a little going down.

It was about a 15-20 minute wait between the salad and main entree.  The chicken arrived hot on the skillet with a side dish of pasta.

Checking out the pasta red sauce, it was definately bright, pure red; I coudn't see any spices.  Usually this means lack of flavor and my suspicions were correct.  I put grated parmesan and salt on it, and still it was barely average.

The chicken and vegetables had more flavor, but still needed salt.  You should never have to add salt to Italian food with all it's wonderful seasoning, but this dish lacked flavor and needed it.  The entree was rather dry - could've used a sauce.  It would've been perfect if the peppers and onions were simmered in a flavorful marinara and poured over the crispy, breaded chicken then topped with fresh, grated parmesan.

Caterina's treats their customers well, but I found the food too average for the above average prices. 

Caterina's location and hours:

9104 W. Oklahoma Ave
Milwaukee, WI 53227414

414-541-4200

Mon - Thurs:
11AM - 10:30PM

Fri & Sat:
11AM - 11PM

Sun:
4PM - 10PM

Rating for Restaurant:

3

, Milwaukee Places & Faces Examiner

Kim is a professional photographer and freelance writer who loves to try new things and meet interesting people. She owns a boutique photography studio, Living Art Photography, that specializes in portraits and events. Kim has traveled and lived in several foreign countries experiencing their...

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