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Beauty & Essex is a beautiful thing

About five years ago, Stanton Social blew our minds.  Chris Santos’ small plates, comfort-food menu rocked our palates.  We waited breathlessly for his next move.  He finally made it and, true to form, it’s solid.

Like Stanton, the massive (and gorgeous) Beauty & Essex was designed by the talented AvroKO and includes peacock touches (a tapestry, feathers in vases), a golden vine in the center bar, and a pawn shop entry stocked with vintage guitars and rock paraphernalia. A dramatic spiral staircase sweeps past a dangling pearl chandelier leading to upstairs lounges with comfy leather couches.  All in all, it’s visually perfect.

The menu follows theme and grows Santos’ genre with taste-size dishes that draw inspiration from global influences.  Playful plates include Crispy ‘Bahn-Mi’ Style Spring Rolls ($12), “General Tso’s” Monkfish ($16), Salt & Pepper Shrimp ($16), and Fiery Thai Curry Chicken Wings ($11), my favorite being the chicken wings.  Broken up into categories like Raw Bar, Jewels on Toast (crostinis), Accessories, and Main Plates, the menu is drool-worthy, and as it turns out, delivers on most every offering.

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From the Raw Bar, start with the inventive Tomato Tartare ($12) on parmesan toast, the light Yellowtail Crudo ($14) and the ‘Cuban Style’ Mahi Mahi Ceviche ($14) with just the right hint of silk and spice from the coconut milk-habanero combination.  Move onto the Whipped Ricotta Crostini ($10) with grilled pears, honey, and basil.  Order extra of the Tomato Tartare.  Yes, they're tiny, but they’re also that good. 

From the main dishes, the four mentioned above are don’t-miss-delicious, but in addition, hit the Lobster Tacos ($18), and most importantly, the Lobster Bisque Dumplings ($14).  An update to the wildly popular French Onion Soup Dumplings at Stanton Social, this variety deserves equal raves and makes me wonder how Santos thinks of these savory combinations?

New to Santos’ repertoire is pasta, and there are a few macaroni choices on the B&E list.  The Spaghettini ($16) is a light citrus-laced option with parsley pesto and zucchini, while the Garganelli’s veal bolognese ($18) will thrill the meat eaters in any crowd.  Talking meat, get the irresistible Oven Braised Chicken Meatballs ($18).  With whipped ricotta and a light brown mushroom gravy, they where the sleeper hit of the order.   A separate section of the menu highlights Creekstone Dry Steaks and a burger for the less adventurous.

Accessories ($7), you say?  There’s plenty to love from Charred Shishito Peppers to Shaved Brussel Sprouts, but the winners were Salt & Vinegar Fries (yes, really), and the Creamy Marscapone Polenta which was flavored with just the right hint of parmesan and not too heavy on the tummy. 

When it came time for dessert, we desperately wanted to pass but the Box of Doughnuts ($12), Black Bottomed Butterscotch Pot de Crème ($10), and Warm Apple Pie ($10) with cheddar streusel and cheddar ice cream (!) quickly caught our attention.  As expected, none disappointed, and while we wanted to hang out at the bar and mingle with the beautiful crowd after our meal, we were way too stuffed for such shenanigans.  Next time, for sure, for I’ll certainly be back at Beauty & Essex in the very near future.

Rating for Beauty & Essex Restaurant:

4

, Manhattan Restaurant Examiner

A native New Yorker, Marie Elena Martinez is a freelance travel and food writer for such outlets as The Wall Street Journal, The Huffington Post, and Newsday. She’s visited six continents and more than forty countries, her love of food only intensifying with each new cuisine, though her heart...

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