There's no lack of fine restaurants in Laos' UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang. Once the royal and spiritual capital of several southeast Asian kingdoms, Luang Prabang epitomizes tropical post-colonial romanticism. The historic core rests high on a peninsula at the confluence of two great rivers, the Mekong and the Nam Khon. Many hotels, guest houses and restaurants take advantage of the spectacular mountain scenery of northern Laos. The Arthouse Cafe, on Kingkitsarath Road, is no exception, boasting beautiful views from both its first and second floor levels and its quiet Nam Khon riverside dining patio.
Deborah Freeman, Arthouse Cafe's manager, hails from Media, a suburb of Philadelphia, and has been living in Luang Prabang for the past seven years. This retired Marine Corps drill sergeant and large construction site engineer was methodically shredding a nice barbecued pork tenderloin with her fingers as she explained that many of the fifteen member staff were women from ethnic villages in the northern mountains. The Canadian owner of Arthouse Cafe and Ms. Freeman agreed that many of the employees would work part-time at higher than average wages so that they would have both time and money to further their education in the city.
The building itself is a reconstruction of the previous early 20th century house with lavish use of native rosewood and includes the owner's personal art collection, much of which are works by Laotian artists. Besides the impressive surroundings, the cuisine takes center stage once diners are seated. The menu is a mix of dishes that would be familiar to western travelers to southeast Asia. It's a mix of Western, fusion Asian, in-house made breads and pastries and the lesser known ethnic cuisine of the Laotian hill tribes. Fish sandwiches, lasagna, tuna melt, vegan selections and even a Philly Cheese Steak on a home made Italian roll ($3.75) grace the menu for visitors nostalgic for home.
The BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwich arrived on a soft Kaiser roll with a side of cole slaw. Laotian pork is tender and flavorful and all the ingredients for an authentic southeastern American BBQ sauce are easily available. The pork was appropriately piled high on the bun and the sauce had a nice balance among sweet, vinegar and hot peppers.
The Pineapple Salad was an attractive and refreshing pile of ripe fruit with peanuts, bean sprouts, carrots, herbs and a mildly spicy peanut dressing on a bed of lettuce. The accompanying French bread was fresh from the oven.
Orlam Soup is a standout among the traditional Lao ethnic dishes. Its herb infused broth is brimming with eggplant, greens from vines and plants that have no English translation along with wood – yes wood. Laotians use many varieties of aromatic woods to flavor soups and stews. Keep in mind that many spices used in Western countries are derived from trees such as cinnamon. In Laotian dishes the wood is not consumed and since it's left in large chunks there's little danger that it will be accidentally swallowed.
Desserts are decidedly Western creations and include fruit breads, a rich chocolate brownie, French pastries and tarts. Although the art is not for sale, the menu includes extensive notes on each of the several dozen paintings and patrons are encouraged to view the collection.
Open seven days a week from 7:00 am - 8:00 pm (5:00 pm on Sunday) the Arthouse Cafe adds to the stunning ambiance of Luang Prabang.
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