It’s no secret that Alex Stupak has had a somewhat illustrious career: full scholarship to the Culinary Institute of America, pastry positions at Clio of Boston, Tru of Chicago, and then working the sweet spot with Grant Achatz at Chicago’s Alinea. When Wylie Dufresne asked Stupak to come to New York City to work at wd-50, it seemed an obvious next move. Awards and distinctions followed: the fairy culinary tale. So, why can you now find Stupak—at the tender age of 31—slinging tacos on a corner in the West Village that used to house Chow? Simple: it’s what the guy likes to eat.
All that handy dandy information can be gleaned from Empellon’s website. What you can’t glean from the website, however, is the Pavlovian smell of his buzzing new hotspot, the sizzle on the crock of queso fundido as it comes out of the kitchen, the little-too-loud din of munching customers, and a chef’s latest venture (considered a gamble by some) coming to fruition. Even Sam Sifton, the high priest of compliment/criticism-dishing, gave Stupak high marks. Mexican, you ask again, somewhat perplexed. On a strip rife with Mexican joints (Agave, Diablo Royale, etc…), no less? Yes, Mexican. From one of the country’s best pastry chefs. Now, let’s move on.
There have been some gripes that the tacos at Empellon are overpriced—three tacos (a dinner portion) cost between $18 and $42 (!), for the lobster variety. (And they are.) Some say that the space is ill-conceived—whitewashed walls, black tables, mis-matched artwork like the watercolor mural behind the bar. (And it is.) Still others think that Stupak needs to focus on either cheap tacos or high end Mexican cuisine. Here, I disagree. Like trendy Mexican joints before him—La Esquina, Crema—Stupak will beat the odds, he just needs to tweak his formula. With a new focus on the wine list and a couple of menu additions, it looks like he’s moving in a good direction. Plus, while plenty of taco aficionados know that fantastic eats can be had for less than $3 in the outer boroughs (or at the Calexico truck), Stupak knows there are plenty of folks who will spend $42 for lobster in their tacos. Welcome to New York.
Disclaimer: If you want peace and quiet with your food, don’t go to Empellon. While this fact has been widely reported, sitting in the front room, trying to talk to your six girlfriends from Westchester that you haven’t seen in a couple of months, the point is hammered home. Then, you look over and see four grandmother-types wolfing down tongue tacos and feel silly. So you push past the noise and order up some food. There’s a cocktail list with $10-12 concoctions, but I’d venture into lesser-traveled territory: grab a bartender and have him send over some straight tequila and mezcal samples, instead. Get loopy; it’s that kind of place.
To start, skip the guacamole. I know, I know; this is exactly how you want to start a Mexican feast, but the chips were too greasy and lacked salt. The guacamole itself was too loose, and lacked punch—like a grocery store variety left too long out in the sun at a backyard BBQ. Instead, go straight to the queso fundidos, small pots of melted Jack cheese with various add-ins, the best kick coming from the red and green chorizo. Served with corn tortillas for dipping, if you’re a large, non-dietetic group, order two. I salivated over the smoked plantain and meatball sopes being served at the table next to me, though when they arrived for my pleasure, they fell a little bit flat. A little too much sope base, too little filling, but the flavors were there. The tuna ceviche was a consistent hit. So was the jicama and radish salad laced with watermelon.
The main event is the taco tasting. Portions are served in twos or threes and offered in ten varieties. For the adventurous: sweetbreads and tongue. For the expense account, the aforementioned lobster (bland in my opinion), and for the fried food fanatic, the tempura battered fish. The standouts for me were the skirt steak tacos that were spicy as all get out, the lamb barbacoa, infused with pasilla, a raisin-like chile and mezcal for a sweet yet smoky flavor. Don’t miss the duck confit with white refried beans.
Five larger plates from clams to ribs round out the menu, but by the time you’re done with all the noshing, they feel beside the point. However, the flavor profiles do tricks on the palate—the rubs on the chicken wings and ribs, especially. Stupak plays with chilies in his recipes to wonderful outcome, and this sets Empellon apart from the more textbook joints residing nearby. By miles.
The verdict? Live and let live, I say. The guy just wants to make tacos. And like everything else in Stupak’s career, I have a feeling he’ll soon get it exactly right. Then, he’ll move on. Hit Empellon before that happens.
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