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A magic village on a magic lake, Bacalar, Quintana Roo, Mexico

For the somewhat adventurous traveler, looking for an alternative to the glitz and glitter of Cancun and the Mayan Riviera area of the Caribbean, the village of Bacalar located on the shore of the pristine waters of  Laguna Bacalar, and just a half hour from the border with Belize, is a delightful alternative. Indeed, it can well be considered one of Mexico’s hidden treasures.

This area, in the southernmost part of the Yucatan Peninsula, is just at the point of developing as a tourist destination for the eco-minded traveler who seeks escape from the larger, often over-developed areas of the northern part of the Peninsula. Just an hour away from the nearest seaport of Mahahual on the Caribbean coast, a stopping point for cruise ships, the Laguna, is virtually undiscovered by tourism. It has always been known for its spectacular colors, much as the waters of the Caribbean, with its range of hues from emerald greens to azure blues and the famous brilliant arrays of turquoise and aqua. It is commonly referred to as “la Laguna de los siete colores” (lagoon of the seven colors).

Being sheltered from the ocean’s winds and salt sprays, the fresh waters of Laguna Bacalar provide a gentler, more nurturing feeling, making it ideal for swimming, kayaking, snorkeling and other water sports. Fishing, too, is more of a relaxing sport than the challenge of deep ocean water .For deep-sea fishing, the Caribbean coast is only an hour away, as is the famed nature reserve of Sian k’an.

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In the other direction, south of Bacalar is the capitol of the state, Chetumal, which is located on the bay leading out to the Caribbean ocean. Long a major water route for the Maya, it was also used by the marauding pirates active in the area during their heyday. It wasn’t until the late 1970’s that Quintana Roo became a state, with Chetumal as its capital. Now a beautiful, tropical city with a broad boulevard along the “ Bahia,”(bay), it is home to the Museum of Mayan Culture, providing a superb introduction to this ancient civilization. This museum has stunning reproductions of ancient Mayan sites in the area as well as a complete representation of the Maya “Tree of Life” extending three levels from the underworld to the topmost branches reaching toward the heavens.

Just across from the museum is the Mercado, selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to modern electronic equipment. Also available throughout the city are numerous internet access as well as dentists, doctors and hospitals. The restaurants along the “Bahia” provide cool, outdoor dining. There is also a zoo and the close proximity to the border with Belize now provides a new, Las Vegas style casino in the “free zone,” connecting the two countries. The country of Belize, with its various cultures and diversity of terrain is often included in vacation plans for this area of the Yucatan Peninsula.

The drive from Bacalar to Chetumal affords the opportunity to give the traveler the feeling for the small, traditional villages that dot the highway, most of which are populated by contemporary Maya. The Fort, located in the center of the village of Bacalar, was built by Mayan labor when the Spanish first landed in the late 1500’s. Like the charming “zocolo,” or central plaza, the Fort has undergone extensive restoration in the past few years, making it a major attraction. People from the local Mennonite community can be seen on the roads in their horse-drawn buggies selling fresh produce from their farms. The town of Bacalar has retained its feeling of authenticity, with no attempt toward tourist oriented activities, but rather remains a town where “real” people carry on their everyday lives.  

At the south end of the town is the lovely Cenote Azul, located on the edge of a beautiful, palm-fringed cenote, whose depth has never been plumbed. The large, semi-outdoor restaurant is housed in a spacious palapa and serves primarily fresh seafood from the area as well as venison when available. The swimming is wonderful and many people take their bathing suits when going there for lunch. At the north end of town, lies the charming eco retreat/resort of Rancho Encantado with its extensive tropical landscaping and twelve individual casitas scattered along the shore of the Laguna. Well prepared, health-oriented food is served in their palapa restaurant on the water’s edge.

Because of the close proximity to some of the most major Mayan sites in the region, the capital city of Chetumal and the border with the country of Belize, the location of Bacalar on the shores of one of the jewels of Mexico, Laguna Bacalar, provides opportunities for exploration of one of the last areas in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico to develop. Its fascinating history and natural ecological beauty has accorded it the status of “pueblo magico” by the Mexican government.

IF YOU GO

Rancho Encantado http://encantado.com
Cenote Azul  http://cenoteazul.com(Spanish)
Quintana Roo Tourist Info  http://www.caribemexicano.gob.mx/en/
Mexico Tourist Info  http://visitmexico.com

Rating for Bacalar, Quintana Roo, Mexico:

5

, Albuquerque Cultural Travel Examiner

Susanna Starr, writer, photographer, artist and author of Fifty and Beyond; New Beginnings in Health and Well Being has had extensive experience as a speaker, appearing on many talk radio shows. Among other venues she has been an editor for Let Life In and a contributor to Your Life is a Trip....

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