Bocanova opens in Oakland's revitalized Jack London Square

 

A few days ago, I mentioned the opening of Chop Bar, in Jack London Square, which is becoming the hot new restaurant destination in the Bay Area. 

Now it's time to introduce you to Bocanova, a 6,500 square foot Pan-American eatery from husband and wife team Rick Hackett (Chez Panisse, Oliveto, Postrio, Florio, MarketBar) and Meredith Melville, that opened on Tuesday in Oakland's newly revitalized Jack London Square. 

Hackett and Melville met while working at Bay Wolf, got married, embarked upon an extended trip bicycling and eating their way through Spain, Portugal and France, and later went into business together in 1991 by reopening the historic Enrico's in North Beach. 

The concept of Bocanova began during the "staff meal," the informal repast that is eaten in restaurants by staff members before every shift.  Hackett says, "My Peruvian sous-chef and his mostly Hispanic staff started making dishes for staff meal inspired by the food of their homelands.  The meals were fantastic!  I realized that what we were eating in the kitchen was every bit as good as what we were preparing for our guests, and I decided that it was about time to celebrate the contribution Latino cooks were making to the rich culinary tapestry of San Francisco."

Combining flavors and techniques of Central and South America with Mediterranean traditions and the "treasure trove of products" available in Northern California, Bocanova was born.

Located in a restored 1920's icehouse that has been decorated in recycled, sustainably harvested materials by architect Michael Guthrie (Bix, Myth, Zinnia), Bocanova boasts soaring ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides, providing spectacular waterfront views.  

There is an exhibition kitchen where the Cevicheria and Raw Bar are showcased on one side, and on the other "hot side," the hearth oven, grill, la plancha (griddle) and rotisserie are featured.  Fire-cooked specialties include Peruvian spice-rubbed rotisserie chicken, house-made sausages, grilled steaks and churrascos.  In the hearth oven, pizzas, slow braises, vegetable and potato gratins, and slow-baked heirloom beans are prepared. 

In addition to the main dining room, guests can enjoy sitting at the bar which can accommodate 15 people, or the adjacent lounge area that seats 60.  The outdoor patio is reminiscent of an Argentine cafe, with oversized umbrellas, gas heaters, and colorful planters. 

Bocanova will soon be joined by other gastronomic luminaries such as the Il Cane Rosso duo, Daniel Patterson (Coi) and Lauren Kiino (Delfina), who will launch Bracina, bringing "rustic-refined California cuisine" to Jack London Square.  Richard Corbo, formerly of Ducca, will open Pizzeria Zanna Bianca and Meg Ray, of Miette Patisserie, will open a retail shop and baking school. 

For more information: 

• Bocanova.  55 Webster Street, Jack London Square, Oakland.  510.444.1233. 
• Also see the Oakland Restaurant Examiner's take on Bocanova