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Cafe Eritrea offers no frills Eritrean and Ethiopian cuisine

Chicken (doro alicha) and beef (zigni) platter.
Chicken (doro alicha) and beef (zigni) platter.
Credits: 
Courtesy of Beverly T.

Oakland is colloquially known as the mecca for Eritrean and Ethiopian cuisine in the Bay Area, thanks to its large expatriate population. On Telegraph Avenue, the main thoroughfare of this thriving community, Cafe Eritrea d'Afrique sits quietly among East African restaurants and shops, serving up reliably delicious traditional fare.

Cafe Eritrea is a small, unassuming establishment, comprised of a dining room and separate bar area. In contrast to some of its local competitors, the aesthetics leave much to be desired. To be frank, it's a bit stark, and lacks the warm tones and artistic indigenous decor found in comparable nearby eateries. Despite its humble surroundings, the savory, colorful dishes and friendly locals more than make up for its lack of ambiance.

Like similar restaurants, its menu offers a variety of stewed beef, chicken and vegetable dishes known as tsebhis or wats. The honey wine (mies or tej) and imported beers pair nicely with most meals. The menu is accommodating to hardcore carnivores and scrupulous vegetarians alike. Popular dishes on the menu include zigni, a spicy cubed beef dish, and the vegetarian combination plate, incorporating birsin (split lentil stew), shiro (pureed chickpea stew), and timatim (cabbage with green beans) onto its platter. All the entrées are perfectly seasoned with mouth-watering authentic butter and spices. The alluring, welcoming aromas immediately envelope patrons upon entrance.

The one item essential to any Eritrean or Ethiopian meal is injera, a soft, slightly sour crepe-shaped flatbread that is used dually as a vessel on which the food is served, and as a utensil for scooping and soaking up the stews. Its lightweight, spongy and pliable consistency demonstrates its meticulous preparation and flawless presentation that single-handedly sets the restaurant apart from its rivals.

Because the meals are served on large platters, it makes for an excellent place to bring groups and share the food family style. Service can be a bit slow on busier evenings (mainly Friday and Saturday), but the wait staff is knowledgeable and attentive.

The consistently scrumptious homemade cuisine, the abiding presence of Eritrean neighbors watching satellite programs at the bar, as well as traditional songs playing in the background, give this place a cozy, unpretentious atmosphere that is sure to generate repeat visits.

Cafe Eritrea d'Afrique
4069 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland, CA 94609
510-547-4520
Mon., Wed-Sun. 10:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m.
(Closed Tuesdays)

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Oakland Restaurant Examiner

Erica Baker is a freelance writer with over 7 years experience in journalism. She's the production manager for several documentaries that have...

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