Bocanova: Pan-American on the waterfront

Photo courtesy of Ashley Teplin

Bocanova, the newest restaurant to hit the waterfront at Oakland’s revitalized Jack London Square, is making a splash with its official opening this week. With a menu spanning the Americas and using mostly local and organic New World ingredients, chef Rick Hackett and his wife Meredith Melville—a duo formerly of Chez Panisse, MarketBar, and Oliveto—expertly mix Latino culinary sensibility with a California twist. (Read my profile of Chef Hackett here.)

Occupying a 1920s-vintage icehouse, the eatery features a warm color scheme of charcoal, earthy orange, blue, and burnt sienna yellow; Peruvian rugs adorn the floors, and textiles surround the lights on the interior columns. Ceramic tile is locally sourced, and wood fixtures come from reclaimed planks in an old barn. The “exhibition” kitchen showcases the activity around the grills, pizza oven and stoves, adding to the warm feel—if you prefer the sun, a pretty sidewalk patio overlooks the marina.

And the food!—a must-try is the Mexican Wild Shrimp Ceviche ($8), poached and spiced up with jicama, cilantro, Serrano chiles and red pepper ketchup, with plantain chips for scooping. Other dishes include Argentine-style grilled meats, Yucatan stew, fish tacos, fried yucca and peppers, and mushroom-and-corn empanadas (small, savory pastries) with lime cream. Drinks run the gamut from basil and cucumber gimlets to a bold and worldly list of unusual wines, including no less than 21 by the glass. I’m sure you’ll find me here quite often—it’s a standout addition to my neighborhood!

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Dominique is a writer and editor based in Oakland. She reviews restaurants for Lonely Planet Publications, and her articles have appeared in national and international newspapers. You may contact her at dchannell@channelledit.com or follow her on Twitter at oakland_eats.

Also, see the SF Restaurant Examiner's take on Bocanova.