Never judge a libro by its cover

 

I’ve eaten at a lot of Mexican restaurants.  Some good, some bad, some authentic, some…well, not so much.  When I noticed that a new Mexican place opened in Portage, I didn’t have high expectations.  In fact, it took me two years to step foot in the place.  Perhaps it was the fact that it is in Portage, where people’s idea of Mexican food is Taco Bell.  Perhaps it was the fact that the last three Mexican places I’ve tried had food a Chihuahua wouldn’t eat.  Perhaps it was the fact that the building looks like a big gray brick  had fallen out of the sky and permanently planted itself in Portage’s burgeoning business district.  Generally, I would use a euphemism to soften the blow of the visual of this building, but this building is downright ugly.  And for two years I judged a book by it’s cover.  You remember the Wizard of Oz?  Where it’s all black and white and Dorothy awakens in a lavish, magical, colorful land?  That’s how I felt when I opened the door.

To describe the interior of La Tolteca as “colorful” is a gross understatement.  An exploding piñata would be more accurate.  All the furniture is handmade and imported from Guanajuato, Mexico, much like the manager, Alonso Aranda.  He is an extremely nice guy and was quite happy to tell me about how the furniture was made and the lengthy time to create it and import it.  Aside from the beautiful furniture, there is the new addition of the bar, which was hand crafted by his father, Reyes Aranda.  I will be doing future articles on his father and the other restaurants he has built (La Tolteca Sun Prairie, Cancun Madison).

As with many Mexican places, their biggest seller is their burritos, but I always like to eat a little off the beaten path.  Alonso suggested the “Alambre” which is grilled ribeye steak with onions, mixed sweet peppers and bacon, served atop four tortillas and covered in melted white cheese.  It was one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted.  The smoky grilled steak and onion perfectly complemented the rich thick cut bacon.  I was thoroughly impressed.  I also had “El Toro,” a new item to be seen on the upcoming new menu.  It could have been the biggest chicken breast I’ve ever seen.  Served with shrimp, fresh jalapeno, and smothered in La Tolteca’s famous Queso Sauce, it was a meal fit for Quetzalcoatl himself.  With rice and beans to tame the heat, it was quite tasty.

If you’re looking for a casual dining Mexican experience, La Tolteca is the place to be.  The portions are big, the prices small (nothing over $15), and the atmosphere outstanding.  From the constantly playing Banda music, to the weekly Mariachi Trio, even in the cold Wisconsin winter, you’ll feel like you’re in sunny Mexico.  Lunch specials run around $5, and they also have a $3 19oz margarita which can’t be beat.  Definitely worth the short drive from Madison, if only to see the furniture.   And I almost forgot, the finest flan I have ever eaten.  Entirely homemade and absolutely delicious. 

Until next time...CIAO DOWN!!!
 

Alonso Aranda, Manager                     "El Toro"                                                "Alambre"

La Tolteca
2653 New Pinery Road
Portage, WI 53901
(608) 745-6776

Monday - Friday
11am - 10pm
Saturday
11:30am - 10pm
Sunday
11:30am - 9pm