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Make it to town in Kaimuki

 

If you feel like going somewhere casual, and want to support Hawaii Regional Cuisine, then head to town (all lower caps) in Kaimuki — just 10 minutes from Waikiki. 

This little bistro at the corner of 9th & Waialae Avenues offers Contemporary American fare using ingredients from local farmers in the Hawaiian isles as much as possible.

Owner/chef Ed Kenney's motto is "local first, organic whenever possible, and with Aloha always." 

That means the arugula is probably from Waianae, and the mushrooms from the Hamakua coast of the Big Island, etc.

The menu is hand-typed (all in small caps, too) on a daily basis, meaning it changes daily, depending on what's in season locally. Lunch and dinner are different, but there's always a good selection of appetizers, salads, hand-cut pastas, fish, seafood, and meat.

On a recent evening, town was offering Opah (Moonfish) for $21.50 and Shutome (Hawaiian Swordfish) for $23. If you're in Hawaii and have the opportunity, go for the fish.

The hand-crafted cocktails here are pretty good, too, and it's perfectly fine to take a seat at the bar if you just want some appetizers and drinks. If you sit outside, though, beware! The metal rungs will probably leave marks on the back of your legs, especially if you're wearing a dress (I speak from experience).

Kenney and his partner, David Caldiero, opened town in 2005, spouting the philosophy of a new generation of eco-conscious entrepreneurs -- the three Ps of "people, planet and profit." 

So far, town has managed to survive, despite this idealistic philosophy, and even successfully opened downtown@theHiSAM (Hawaii State Art Museum) two years later. More on downtown@theHISAM later.

Both town and downtown have had the honor of being on Conde Nast Traveler's "Hot List" for new hotels, restaurants and clubs. But recent reviews on TripAdvisor have been mixed, some praising and some criticizing the prices and quality of service at town.

Still, it's worth a try if you're in town, so to speak.

Have a seat indoors, where stainless steel meets dark wood, with generous windows, or sit outdoors if it's a nice evening (which it is, most days out of the year here). 

If you get takeout, you will be happy to know that town has opted to use biodegradable plastic (made from cornstarch) and bagasse (sugarcane fiber) for meals-to-go.

Town is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Seating is limited, so reservations are recommended. Parking is also tough in this neighborhood, but there is a small lot reserved for town on 9th avenue. Reservations can be made at www.townkaimuki.com. Credit cards are accepted.

town

3435 Waialae Ave.

(808) 735-5900

Twitter: @townkaimuki

 

For more info: E-mail info@townkaimuki.com.
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Honolulu Restaurant Examiner

Nina has been a foodie since graduating from Berkeley, where she began appreciating the quality of food brought from the farm to the table. Food...

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