Jeff Dufour, The Examiner
2007-07-17 07:00:00.0
Current rank: Not ranked

WASHINGTON -

In only 12 years of existence, Delaware’s Dogfish Head Brewery has established itself as one of the top regional craft breweries in the nation. Known for intensely hopped, high-alcohol brews, Dogfish’s offerings can often make beer lovers coo like wine lovers, using words like “floral,” “tobacco” and “grassy.”

After opening its flagship brewpub in Rehoboth, the company took over a Gaithersburg space in 2005 for its first Dogfish Head Alehouse (all the beer still is made in Rehoboth).

Virginians should take heed as well: Another Dogfish location is set to open in Falls Church later this summer.

» The Scene:

The two-level space, formerly the West Diamond Grill and Pat & Mike’s, comes straight out of brewpub central casting — tin ceiling, dark wood, neon signs. The bar is dark and cozy (and offers free Wi-Fi).

» The Pour:

Oh, where to begin? You might try the seasonal festine peche, an impossibly light wheat beer made with peaches. Or stick with the brewer’s bread-and-butter brews: the award-winning 60 Minute IPA and 90 Minute IPA (named for how long the beer is exposed to hops) or the reddish Indian Pale Ale. Creamy stout gets a jolt from chicory. For something even more different, try the Raison D’Etre, a wine-y brew made with raisins, beet sugar and Belgian yeast. Dogfish’s light beer, called Lawnmower Light, puts any mass-produced light to shame. One caveat: Supply is inconsistent, so they may be out of your first, second or even third choice.

» The Taste:

The kitchen does a few things very well here. Thin-crust pizza, which comes in eight varieties, gets finished over the wood grill for a pleasant smokiness. Hand-cut, golden brown “beach fries” earn their name — they’re as good as anything you’ll taste on a boardwalk. Burgers are tasty, and fried shrimp, grouper and/or cod are perfectly pleasant renditions of old favorites. But the kitchen doesn’t stick to its strengths. On the overly long menu, you’ll also encounter tough, chewy mussels; chili that could be from a can; and fish that may or may not be past its prime.

» The Touch:

Service here is informal, yet capable and very pleasant. You’ll be hard-pressed to stump the staff on a beer question, and you can expect the manager to check in with you at least once.

» Don’t miss:

The limited-release 120 Minute IPA. Hopped, hopped and hopped again, this beer approaches 20 percent alcohol by volume. Its next release will be in September.

» Why you will go:

Because it’s a far better experience than TGI Friday’s or other chain restaurants that serve similar fare.

» Why you won’t go:

Because you’re a city dweller: Set among office parks, this is the quintessential suburban environment.

DOGFISH HEAD ALEHOUSE

800 W. Diamond Ave.

Gaithersburg

301-963-4847

www.dogfish.com

» Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday

» Prices: Appetizers: $5 to $11; sandwiches and pizza: $7 to $12; entrees: $13 to $21.

» Bottom Line: The beers win medals, not the food.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com