Jeff Dufour, The Examiner
2007-07-10 07:00:00.0
Current rank: Not ranked

WASHINGTON -

When Chef Susan Lindebourg retired last year, it was unclear what would become of The Majestic, the upscale Southern diner she oversaw in Old Town Alexandria.

The restaurant remained open but in a state of limbo until the owners brought Chef Cathal Armstrong (of Restaurant Eve fame and the newly minted Chef of the Year) and his team aboard to retool the menu and oversee operations. It was a natural fit: Armstrong and his wife hatched the idea for Eve over a bottle of wine at The Majestic four years ago. His menu, executed by deputies Shannon Overmiller and Michael Bergeron, remains aggressively American with a few Southern touches and has locals filling the small room nightly.

» The Scene:

A minor face-lift has made the restaurant look a bit less like a Johnny Rockets, but the narrow room retains some of the trappings of a diner, such as tile floors, unclothed tables and cozy booths. Heavy curtains, neutral tones and dramatic chandeliers jazz things up a bit.

» The Pour:

Todd Thrasher, Armstrong’s partner and cocktail guru, developed a list that puts a fresh twist on classics: Hemingway’s Daiquiri adds fresh grapefruit juice to the standard lime, for example. The wine list is modest in length and price: Most bottles are American and less than $50.

» The Taste:

With the exception of broiled sardines and calves’ liver, this is a pretty straightforward menu. Pickled onion and pea shoots dress up a nice pan-seared pair of crab cakes. A bright asparagus soup gets some kick from goat cheese cream. Bacon vinaigrette livens up the crispy soft shell crabs over succotash. Whole grilled fish is tender and juicy (if a little bony), served over a tangy fennel salad and lemon.

On the other side of the ledger, fried green tomatoes were undercooked and underseasoned, and their simple tomato sauce didn’t bring much life to the party. The meat loaf, meanwhile, was overseasoned, overwhelmed with salt and herbs. And the house-made orecchiette with bread crumbs — one of the “little tasty sides” — was clumpy with bread crumbs. You’re better off with the green beans with house-made bacon or the tender English peas with mint, shallots and lemon zest.

» The Touch:

On my visits, service was acceptable, if unremarkable. What was remarkable was the classic Caesar salad, prepared tableside. Composed of nine ingredients, individually added to the bowl and tossed to order, the tangy, garlicky salad was the best I’ve had in months.

» Don’t miss:

The old-fashioned icebox cakes, which change nearly every day.

» Why you will go:

For Nana’s Sunday Dinner, a family-style feast for four that sets you back only $68. July’s menu (it changes monthly) includes barbecue chicken, coleslaw, potato salad, corn on the cob and a whole pie.

» Why you won’t go:

Because on weekend nights, the parking situation along this stretch of Old Town can turn back even the most intrepid restaurant adventurer.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com