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Now, the art isn’t just on the walls
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(Greg Whitesell/Examiner)
A former auto showroom, Logan Circle’s Viridian now occupies the first floor of the 1515 Arts Building, home to numerous galleries. So many people have wanted to like Viridian for so long. The artsy restaurant on 14th Street had a lot going for it when it opened in 2005: an ascendant neighborhood, a stunning space and an environmentally conscious attitude. Yet the inconsistent kitchen went through several changes and service often was sour, as was the reaction from much of the public. Now, however, owner Saled Azali (who also owns the venerable Perry’s in Adams Morgan) has lured Michael Hartzer, a former deputy to Michel Richard at Citronelle, to oversee the cooking. Under his direction, the restaurant is showing signs of living up to its vast potential. » The Scene: A former auto showroom, Viridian now occupies the first floor of the 1515 Arts Building, home to numerous galleries. Art is an integral part of the scene in the dining room, too, its walls home to rotating exhibits curated by co-owner Giorgio Furioso. Currently, large-format photographs dominate the walls, and a graphic video display projects on the back wall of the bar. They look right at home among the soaring ceilings, clean lines and neutral tones. » The Pour: You won’t find many familiar bottles on the wine list, which tends toward eclectic, mid-range choices in the $35 to $65 price range. But bargain hunters take heed: All wines are half-price on Sunday and Monday nights. Happy hour deals on food and drink are available all night on Tuesdays. » The Taste: Despite the change in the kitchen, Hartzer’s menu remains aggressively seasonal and committed to using local meat and produce when possible. Among the starters, spinach and mushroom lasagna is layered with ricotta atop puff pastry and a brilliantly flavorful tomato confit. Big, beefy mussels are steeped in cream and made tangy with garlic and thyme. Snapper gets an Asian touch, with a Thai-inspired stir fry of coconut milk, sprouts, peanuts and mushrooms. Hartzer even gets his hands on real big-eye tuna, which is tough to find these days amidst the inferior yellowtail on most menus. There are some missteps: Burnt shallots don’t do the scallop romesco appetizer any favors and a fennel-citrus salad clashes with the rare venison chop that it accompanies. » The Touch: Service also has improved from its abysmal beginnings here. Now, it’s generally friendly and efficient, although you might get a blank stare when inquiring about the wines. There also seem to be communication breakdowns between the floor staff and the kitchen: On one visit, our entrees came out right on top of the appetizers, whereupon they were returned to the kitchen to sit under the heat lamp for 10 minutes. » Don’t miss: One of Logan Circle’s best brunches, with items including vanilla French toast, eggs Benedict over biscuits and house-made pastries all at $10 or under. » Why you will go: For the three-course, $32 pre-theater menu — a no-brainer for patrons of the Studio Theatre next door. » Why you won’t go: Because you’re riding Metro. Subway access is several blocks from the restaurant in any direction. VIRIDIAN 1515 14th St. NW 202-234-1400 www.viridianrestaurant.com Prices: Appetizers: $7 to $12; entrees: $14 to $32 Hours: Dinner: 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Sunday brunch: 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. » Bottom line: A new chef reinvigorates a gorgeous space. jdufour@dcexaminer.com |