Jeff Dufour, The Examiner
2007-05-01 07:00:00.0
Current rank: Not ranked

Alexandria -

Old Town Alexandria’s restaurant renaissance, now in full flight, has another participant: Overwood, a casual American grill from the same folks who developed the Boulevard Woodgrill in Clarendon and the Faccia Luna locations all over the metro area.

Overwood — the name a nod to the fruit hardwoods used to grill, roast and smoke much of the food — seems to take some pride in being a neighborhood restaurant. The restaurant occupies the historic Crilley Warehouse; black-and-white photos of Old Town line the walls; and even only a month into its existence, a steady stream of locals are parading through its doors.

» The Scene:

The space seems designed by a focus group of inside-the-Beltway twenty- and thirtysomethings: exposed ductwork, sturdy chairs and tables of dark hardwood and enough exposed brick to make the Three Little Pigs blush. All that brick and hardwood can lead to some loud evenings, however. Although smoking is still allowed on the Virginia side of the river, the menu notes that “other than from the kitchen … Overwood is 100 percent smoke-free.”

» The Pour:

The wine list here mirrors the menu — modest in length and price — and that’s a good thing. You won’t pay $50 for any bottle, and most are tucked into the $25 to $35 range, including some smartly selected South American, Aussie and Spanish selections. The cocktail list isn’t particularly inventive — mostly traditional cocktails with creative names.

» The Taste:

As you might expect, meat and big-game fish dominate chef Rami Errami’s menu. Among the best offerings: a lamb shank with pinot noir sauce; a tangy meat loaf of beef, veal and pork; and a full rack of baby back ribs basted in black strap molasses sauce. Twin French-cut pork chops, however, emerged too thin and unforgivably dry.

On the appetizer list, both the calamari with harissa and lemon-garlic aioli and the fried green tomatoes with jalapeno aioli were surprisingly bland, despite their deep-fried treatment. Not so for the delectable St. Louis Toasted Ravioli — half a dozen puffs of cheese and pasta, baked crispy in the wood oven and served with a smoky tomato sauce.

» The Touch:

Most newer restaurants struggle with service. Not this one. Everyone in the place was efficient and helpful with the perfect amount of friendly charm for the relaxed atmosphere.

» Don’t miss:

The Elvis Pie for dessert — a combo of Oreo crust, banana, crunchy peanut butter, whipped cream and shaved Belgian chocolate.

» Why you will go:

Because you’re hungry on the later side; the kitchen serves the full menu till midnight on weekends.

» Why you won’t go:

On nicer afternoons, you may be surrounded by swarms of tourists strolling up from the nearby waterfront.

OVERWOOD

220 N. Lee St., Alexandria

703-535-3340

www.theoverwood.com

» Prices: Appetizers: $5.95 to $7.95; entrees: $9.95 to $21.95

» Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday to Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

» Bottom line: A casual, unpretentious American grill-cum-watering hole.

jdfufour@dcexaminer.com