Jeff Dufour, The Examiner
2007-04-24 07:00:00.0
Current rank: Not ranked

Alexandria -

We can call it a trend: Accomplished chefs trading in the stuffiness and high-concept menus of starched-tablecloth restaurants for the more casual charms of a traditional bistro.

Add Christophe Poteaux and Michelle Garbee to the list of pros who have successfully made the shift. The executive chef and pastry chef — who are engaged to me married, “when we have time,” she says — made their mark in D.C. at Aquarelle at the Watergate, earning two trips to the James Beard house while they were there.

Last fall, they took over the former Café Marianna space on the northern outskirts of Old Town Alexandria, and remade it as a casual French eatery, an homage to the restaurants around which Poteaux grew up in the Paris suburbs.

» The Scene:

Upon taking over the space, Poteaux and Garbee set about remaking the whole interior, bathing the place in deep browns, homey photographs and original art. The room seats only about 50, so it fills up with a mostly gregarious set of locals. Now that the weather’s turned, the charming outdoor patio is open again.

» The Pour:

Poteaux and Garbee selected the offerings on the 70-odd-bottle wine list themselves. In keeping with the menu, it’s modestly priced (not much over $75) and mostly French, with several white Burgundies, Alsatian wines and Rhone varietals to choose from. A smattering of American and Spanish wines keeps the Francophobes happy.

» The Taste:

Poteaux calls his menu Franco-Mediterranean, and true enough, there are some southern European touches such as spicy couscous and free-range chicken roasted on a bed of olives. Calamari beignets emerge with a yogurt harissa dip. But at heart, it’s still unmistakably French. A tasty hangar steak is served with crispy, golden pommes frites. Vanilla bean crème brulee is as simple as it gets, but flawlessly executed. Poteaux’s gourmet past crops up, however, in choices like the foie gras crème caramel and the poached halibut in lavender citrus infusion.

» The Touch:

In addition to baking the desserts, Garbee runs the front of the house. On my visits, service is as it should be: friendly, helpful and well paced. A couple extra touches include French press coffee service and a surprisingly expansive list of hot teas.

» Don’t miss:

Any of Poteaux’s risottos, particularly the current offering, with spring peas and green asparagus. Also the house-made trio of duck charcuterie — confit, prosciutto and rillettes.

» Why you will go:

For the three-course, $23 “Sunday dinner” menu, one of the best values around on any day of the week.

» Why you won’t go:

Because despite the charming outdoor space, you can’t get farther away from anything else and still be in Old Town.

BASTILLE

1201 N. Royal St., Alexandria

703-519-3776

www.bastillerestaurant.com

» Prices: Appetizers: $6 to $12; entrees: $17 to $26; pre-theater menu: $35; chef’s tasting menu: $49/$79 with wine; Sunday dinner: $23.

» Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m Tuesday through Friday; noon to 2:30 p.m. Saturday; Sunday brunch: 11 a.m to 3 p.m. Dinner: 6 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 6 to 10 p.m. Saturday; 4 to 8 p.m Sunday.

» Bottom line: An intimate, casual bistro without pretension.