Jeff Dufour, The Examiner
2007-03-20 07:00:00.0
Current rank: Not ranked

WASHINGTON -

Oyamel’s relocation to Penn Quarter is the result of a bit of musical chairs among area restaurants in the past few months.

When the building that housed superstar chef Roberto Donna’s Galileo restaurant closed for renovations, Donna moved across the river to Crystal City, and established Bebo Trattoria in the space formerly occupied by José Andrés’ ode to Mexican small plates, Oyamel.

So Andrés in turn moved Oyamel downtown into Penn Quarter, the area he helped first establish with his wildly successful Zaytinya and Jaleo concepts.

What’s more, the space has Mexican roots: It was formerly the home of the well-regarded Mexican restaurant Andale, until it shut its doors last year.

» The Scene:

The space isn’t quite as gaudy as before, as design team Adamstein & Demetriou has employed more muted, tasteful colors on the walls. A collection of authentic masks rings the sunken dining room, mobiles of giant metal butterflies hang from the ceiling and a giant, multicandle holder drips a constant mound of wax on the floor in one corner. A projection of footage from markets and urban centers in Mexico runs continuously atop the six-seat ceviche bar.

» The Pour:

For a Mexican restaurant, Oyamel is relatively serious about wine, offering some 50 selections, heavy on the Rieslings and Rhone varietals that can stand up to spice and bold flavors. But, at a place like this, you’re probably thinking “cocktail,” and here they deliver as well. Among the five margaritas, I suggest the Oyamel (topped with salt air) and the Subzero Hibiscus. If you’d prefer not to remember your meal, you may choose from nearly 30 premium tequilas and mezcals.

» The Taste:

The 50-odd authentic offerings of Executive Chef Joe Raffa are a far cry from the usual Tex-Mex. Among the more creative “anojitos,” or “little dishes from the street”: meatballs in chipotle sauce with double cream cheese, a delicious corn tamale with Chihuahua cheese and a guajillo chili sauce, a half chicken with mole poblano sauce and — most of all — a poblano pepper stuffed with beef, pineapple and tomato and topped with Sambuca, walnuts, cheese and pomegranates.

At $3 to $4 apiece, the single-serving tacos encourage you to try many. And that’s a good thing, when the choices include wild mushrooms, confit of baby pig, braised oxtail with pineapple and braised beef tongue with radishes.

Attention to detail in the kitchen sometimes lapses: a queso fundido with chorizo emerged oily and congealed, nearly impossible to spread on the accompanying tortillas. And tuna ceviche, cleverly wrapped in jicama root, was overwhelmed by the salt and citrus in its cilantro sauce.

» The Touch:

Servers here seem genuinely interested in making their guests happy, even if they themselves struggle occasionally with the voluminous menu.

» Don’t Miss:

The scintillating red snapper ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime.

» Why you will go:

Because where else in the city can you try a taco filled with guacamole and fried grasshoppers? Yes, really.

» Why you won’t go:

Because you have a sweet tooth — none of the desserts are worth returning for.

OYAMEL

401 Seventh St. NW, Washington

202-628-1005

www.oyamel.com

Prices: Small plates and tacos: $5.50 to $10.50; entrees: $19 to $25

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday and Monday; 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thurs. ; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Reservations accepted during lunch and on a limited basis at night.

» Bottom line: More of what Oyamel fans have come to expect — authentic-yet-creative Mexican cuisine — in a space more suited to the concept.

jdufour@dcexaminer.com