Anna Minkowski, The Examiner
2007-03-03 08:00:00.0
Current rank: Not ranked

BALTIMORE -

Thomas Rhodes remembers his first cup of coffee like it was yesterday.

“It was at Fort Jackson, South Carolina, and I was 18,” he said. “I didn’t really care for coffee prior to joining the military, and military coffee was so horrible I had to put chocolate milk in it.”

This initial dislike has since converted into a viable business opportunity.

Rhodes and his wife, Amy, are the founders of Zeke’s Coffee Roastery, located in a 530-square-foot shop in Baltimore City’s Lauraville. Rhodes knew the coffee business, having worked for Baltimore roastery Key Coffee, which was later sold and moved out of the state.

After the decision to go out on his own, Rhodes debuted Zeke’s at the Baltimore Farmer’s Market in November 2005.

“We sell about 700 to 800 cups of coffee at the Farmer’s Market and about 100 bags of beans,” he said. “I have been pleasantly surprised by the customer loyalty and commitment to buying locally here in Baltimore,” he said.

People can find Zeke’s, bagged and brewed, at local cafes and specialty groceries throughout the city, including Eddie’s of Roland Park.

“We are about eight months ahead of our business plan,” said Rhodes. “We are looking at expansion and becoming more rooted in the community.”

Already, Rhodes has made a communitywide impact.

“We feel incredibly lucky to have them right here in our neighborhood,” said Nicole Selhorst, owner of the Red Canoe, a children’s bookstore and cafe next to the roastery.

“[Rhodes] is a Baltimore guy, his roasts and his blends really reflect his sense of what Baltimore is, what it has been and what is it evolving to,” she said, citing the Little Italy roast, the Herring Run roast, and the Market blend. “Even if their coffee wasn’t that great, we would have started carrying it because they are local and we love the whole small business community, but their coffee is outstanding.”

The lines at Zeke’s stand during the Farmer’s Market season (May through Dec.) form because of the coffee’s quality and Rhodes’ friendly nature.

“He went off on his own and it’s very admirable that in a very short time, he has a very viable business going,” said Carole Simon, who has managed the Farmer’s Market for more than 15 years. “It’s hard to make it, and he has done a really splendid job.”

Rhodes’ favorite blend is appropriately the Market Blend, a “bold, slightly nutty and slightly sweet” roast.

And how does he take his coffee?

“The only way it’s supposed to be taken: black,” he said.

aminkowski@baltimoreexaminer.com