Jeff Dufour, The Examiner
2007-02-01 08:00:00.0
Current rank: Not ranked

WASHINGTON -

“It is an obsession,” Andrew Stover says of his interest in wine. The wine director of OYA, Stover says his fascination began about seven years ago when he started working at Breaux Vineyards in Hillsboro, Va.

Since then, he’s turned that obsession into a profession, earning wine credentials from two organizations, visiting wine regions in 10 countries and consulting at area restaurants.

“I have at least 500 bottles at home,” he says. “Every time I go on a trip I bring back a case, so they just pile up.”

The wine list at OYA, completely revamped by Stover, now reflects his wide interests throughout the wine world. His 130-odd bottle list represents 14 countries, eight states and 25 wines by the glass. About 10 percent is exclusive to OYA in Washington, bottles that he obtains directly from wineries through special permits with the city.

He has a syrah from Idaho already on the list; other selections include a wine labeled “Bitch” from Australia and one called “Sex” from a producer in Michigan.

“If you can get it at Safeway or Whole Foods,” he says, “drink it at home. I want customers to find something new, learn something new when dining with us. … For example I took pinot grigio off the by-the-glass list because it was too easy for people to walk in and order it by name. I switched to an Austrian Gruner Veltliner, which has similar characteristics and is one of our best-selling by-the-glass wines.”

Q You’ve got a unique list. What’s next?

A Right now, I am looking at wines from Malibu, Calif.; Okanagan Valley, British Columbia; the Basque region of Spain; Liechtenstein; and from the Puget Sound of Washington state to add to the list. I am also looking at a chardonnay/malvasia blend from North Carolina and a pinot noir and cabernet franc ice wine from Ohio.

Q Your menu emphasizes sushi. There are a variety of opinions on what to pair with it. What’s your take?

A Obviously bubbly works best. But Champagne is too complex. I like Prosecco and Cava.

Our sushi is also nontraditional, it’s creative, so I also recommend tocai friulano, an Italian varietal.

A lot of our rolls come with wasabi inside, so you want something with a hint of sweetness to balance it out — Gewurztraminer.

I’ve been pouring pinot noirs with sushi also, particularly with salmon and tuna. You need a really, really light one. I like the Acacia A from California’s North Coast.

Q What are some exciting up-and-coming regions or varietals?

A Tannat from Uruguay, pinot noir from Patagonia in Argentina. British Columbia is making fresh whites and pinot noir, some merlot in the southern end. There’s a fantastic red Bordeaux style called Osoyoos larose.

Domestically, look to Ohio and Michigan, mainly near the Leelanau Peninsula in Michigan and Lake Erie area in Ohio. I just tasted a fabulous pinot noir from St. Joseph Vineyard near Cleveland.

Q What is your desert island bottle?

A 1982 Chateau Petrus from Bordeaux. I had a bottle with Jenni McCloud, owner of Chrysalis Vineyards a while back. Simply stunning.

OYA is located at 777 9th St. NW; 202-393-1400; www.oyadc.com