Mutton quest ends at Rancho Liborio

By a stroke of luck, the Denver Post brought with it a flyer from a mercado, Rancho Liborio. Rancho Liborio has several locations in the Denver area, and recently had the grand opening of the Thornton location. It was the Thornton location to which this writer went to procure the long sought after mutton.

The store is very large and bright. One is tempted by the long bakery case of freshly baked sweets and other goods. Rancho Liborio’s produce section offers a large variety of not only the basic fruits and vegetables, but things that are hard to find at other grocery stores that are so essential for authentic south of the border cooking such as banana leaves and chayote.

But, of course, the point of the whole trek there was to obtain mutton. The meat counter was glorious, replete with not only steaks, chops, and seafood, but beef cheek, beef tongue, and the sought after mutton. The mutton was a bone-in mix, so three pounds were requested to yield at least one pound boned. The order was filled, bagged, labeled, and on it’s way to becoming a meal.

Upon arrival in the kitchen, it became apparent that the meat was indeed mutton, but had been mislabeled and priced as tripe which costs $0.30 more per pound. It also became clear that there was only one truly meaty piece in the lot, and that there was an abundance of rib bones of questionable meat value. Meatless bones are great for making stock, but not very good for much else.

Boned, ground, seasoned with salt, pepper, curry powder and onion, the mutton was browned, then folded into Goya® discos and baked rather than fried. They would make good appetizers. The flavor was milder than expected, so mild in fact, that mutton may begin to make regular appearances on the Rice household dinner table.

Italian Soup with Mutton
Serves 4
By Barbara Avery in keeping with the one-pot meal theme

12 ounces ground mutton
2/3 cup chopped fennel
5 cups beef broth
¼ cup dry red wine
1 ½ teaspoons dried oregano
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 can white kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup frozen spinach
3 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated if desired for garnish
Fresh basil chiffonade, if desired for garnish

In a Dutch oven over medium high heat brown mutton and fennel. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Add broth, wine, oregano, and pepper. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Stir in spinach and heat through. Ladle into bowls and garnish with cheese and basil.