In the annals of unfortunate restaurant names there are some real doozies. Perhaps none is more memorable than a place that held court in Brooklyn some years ago that chose to style itself Cafe Between the Toes. Once you are dealing with names in that league, a self-inflicted moniker like Fatty Fish doesn't even rate an honorable mention.
A newcomer to the local restaurant scene, Fatty Fish serves the dual purpose of bringing reasonably priced food to the mostly unreasonably priced Upper East Side and providing a fusion-crazed populace with yet another pan-Asian bistro.
In some cases, the menu's reach extends beyond the Far East's grasp: Witness rack of lamb with a . Shrimp scampi is given an Indonesian makeover; for good measure, it is partnered with rice noodles.
The fatty fish of the name achieves material expression in several of the sushi offerings that emanate from a small sushi bar. The restaurant's Japanese side is also realized in a handful of rice and bento boxes and in the very good pork gyoza numbered among the fusion dim sum.
The restaurant has filed an application for a liquor license. In the meantime, customers are welcome to bring their own wine and beer.
Price range: Appetizers, $3.50 to $15; main courses, $12 to $27; desserts, $4 to $9.
Recommended dishes: Pork gyoza, pan-seared scallops with , carrot ginger poached shitake layered salmon, Kobe beef burger, banana tempura, baked brie with mango chutney
Fatty Fish, 406 E. 64th St., bet First and York Avenues, 212-813-9338. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch, Sunday for brunch, and 7 days for dinner.
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