I have to confess that, for me, flavor and nutrition occupy opposite ends of the same spectrum. There are restaurants that feed the soma and restaurants that feed the soul, but seldom does one place do both. This is not to pooh-pooh health food entirely. Back in the '80s, an enterprising restaurateur by the name of Hisae Vilca ran a mini-empire of New York "health food" restaurants (notice the quotes). Evincing an Asian influence, these restaurants demonstrated that bean sprouts not only have a place in the human diet but can taste good when combined with the right flavors.
Since that time, however, health food and non-health food have gone their separate ways. If anything, the gulf between them has widened, with health food giving way to the vegetarian, then vegan, and now raw-food movements, while pork fat has come to occupy a newfound reverence among hedonistic eaters.
Can this divide be bridged? According to Jared Koch, who styles himself a "nutritional and wellness counselor," the answer is a resounding yes. Koch has a book and website that share the name Clean Plates N.Y.C. devoted to the elusive principle that one can eat well—in both senses of the phrase—when eating out in New York City. His website contains a list of bullet points that restaurants must satisfy in order to make the cut. Many of the criteria are predictable—locally grown, organic, hormone and antibiotic free, sustainably raised—but one that resonated with me was "food critic approved."
I have my doubts, but in the interests of fairness, I have signed up for five free reviews that will be delivered to my inbox over the next five days. You can do the same by entering your name and email address in the fields at this page. I will meet you back here later in the week to share my reactions. I would also like to share your reactions if you're interested in expressing them. Think of this as an open forum. All views expressed will be presented unedited, and full accreditation will be given unless you instruct otherwise. Either post your reactions in a comment below this article or email me: howard.portnoy@gmail.com.
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Comments
First Bloomberg came for the transfats. Then he came for the salt. How long will it be before he comes for the reviewers who mock his agenda and foil his plans to have us all eating tofu by romanticizing unhealthy food?
I'll answer your question in a second, Sully. Let me just see who's at the door. . .
Thanks for finding this site, Howard - I think the online apps are esp. useful, because these restaurants probably change their menus at least every season.
I hope you test out the 5 reviews you get, and I'll bet you find the food is top-notch.
One trick French restaurants could use: instead of adding butter to thicken a sauce, let it reduce naturally. You won't miss the butter, I promise!
Anne, Jared Koch and Alex Van Buren, who writes the reviews, have both reached out to me. Jared sent me a review copy of his book, which will indeed enable me to do some in-depth coverage of their work. Why don't you sign up for the five reviews and share your opinions, both with me and on your page, which I can then link?
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