Budgerigars 101: Tips for caring for America's parakeet

How much is that birdie in the window? If it’s a budgie, you might find one 99 cents with purchase of a cage and other accessories. Or maybe $14.99 to $25.00 if no sale is available. If you hear the word “budgerigar” at all in pet stories, it’s probably along with the word “English” for what looks like a very fancy kind of one. But rarely is it clear why the solitary bird that costs many times more is labeled “English budgie” but the crowded cage with dozens of chirping little birds from 40-55 grams are all called “parakeets.”

At most pet stores, except in states like New Jersey and Connecticut where they are illegal, these “parakeet” cages are often placed very close to cages also placed with the parakeet named. Quaker parakeets it says. For the typical person who doesn’t know much about parrots or Quakers in particular it doesn’t make sense. HOW CAN THEY BOTH BE PARAKEETS?

That’s a tricky question which is answered in great detail in “Budgerigars: Defining a parakeet.” To summarize, parakeet is a group, not a species. What Americans refer to as a “parakeet” cannot properly be referred to as a parakeet. That is simply not its species name. Its species name is BUDGERIGAR (Melopsittacus undulatus). Though Americans like to call budgerigars parakeets, their place in the parakeet branch is so far one of much debate (see http://www.examiner.com/x-13809-NY-Aviculture-Examiner~y2009m6d25-Budgerigars--defining-a-parakeet) and therefore, for now, we will consider them separate from parakeets.

So why do we call the budgerigar (budgie for short), parakeet? Some of that might simply be that as science has continually adjusted its understanding of how parrots are similar to one another, our language has not. Webster’s dictionary defines parakeet simply as “any of numerous usually small slender parrots with a long graduated tail." By that same definition, some parakeets would be excluded and cockatiels (Nymphus Hollandicus) would be included. Cockatiels were for many years excluded from the cockatoo branch but are now, thanks to DNA testing, recognized as a near relative to the black cockatoos and are firmly recognized as cockatoos.

In other words, one cannot go by the visual description alone.  Nor can one rely on the “small description”—the Alexandrine parakeet is 250-300 grams. That’s the same size as a Goffin cockatoo or yellow collared macaw.

So what are some basic care guidelines for budgerigars? What do you need in order to care for one?

1) SECURE WINDOWS AND DOORS. They are extremely smart and get into stuff. Bird proof your home! Cover all screens to windows and make sure there are NO HOLES. Budgies like to chew screens to windows as much as any other parrot. DON’T GIVE ACCESS TO THE SCREENS. MANY MANY budgerigars are lost out the windows and doors by people who are careless. Remember that at 40-45 they are VERY EASY TO ESCAPE OUT OF THE HOME!!!!

2) BUDGERIGARS ARE PARROTS. They need lots of toys. Mirrors, shredding toys, natural material toys, you name it.   That also means that they will be prone to chewing your belonging when out of their cage. DO NOT LET THIS KEEP YOU FROM GIVING THEM BADLY NEEDED EXERCISE. Budgies need playtime out of their cage just as much as any parrot does for both their physical and mental well being (how well would YOU hold up if you were never allowed out of your home??)—and this out of cage time is your best opportunity to bond with your bird and enjoy the true pleasures of life with a budgie. Budgies are also extremely social. In the wild they live in flocks numbering in the hundreds. See PBS Nature episode “Parrots in the Land of Oz” to see wild budgerigars in action and better appreciate their needs for companionship.

3) BUDGERIGARS ARE LIVING BEINGS—NOT TOYS. This seems obvious until we realize how many budgies are bought as impulse purchases and then allowed to die or are released out the window to die from starvation or predation because the public assumes these are disposable animals. It is SO EASY to think of these little parrots on the same level as a hamster or guinea pig or a goldfish that American society thinks that “parakeet” means nothing. Simple, easy, short lived. At 99 cents each, HOW HARD CAN IT BE? Throw a little seed in the cage and that’s it, RIGHT?   It’s cute, it’s pretty…a four year old child can handle one, RIGHT?

WRONG WRONG WRONG!!!!!   See #2! THESE ARE PARROTS. As parrots, they have all of the qualities and needs of any parrot—including the long life span. A budgie’s natural lifespan is 10-15 YEARS. As parrots, they have the same intelligence as a HUMAN CHILD. Not to mention the curiosity. When you get a parrot of any species, you are adopting a human child with feathers—who flies and can get into places you cannot. Oh and did you notice that beak that naturally carves wood to build its nest? With the exception of a few rare Australian parakeet species that nest in termite mounds and the Quaker parakeet which builds its nest with twigs and branches it weaves together, ALL OTHER PARROTS NEST IN TREE HOLLOWS. This includes our budgerigar. Experience says that they like to chew whatever you most want them not to—because parrots are rascals with the intuition to figure out exactly what that is (another thing in common with human children.

Usually what happens is that the moment a parrot bought on impulse is discovered for the real destructive rascal she is and the moment it stops being fun, the parrot is taken out of the house—either by being re-homed or, more cruelly, sent outdoors to die.

Let this examiner make it clear: parrots in the wild learn to survive in the wild ONLY by being taught from birth by their flock how to do so. Furthermore, THEY CANNOT SURVIVE WITHOUT THE PROTECTION OF THE FLOCK. So a companion bird, raised by us, sent outside WILL DIE. She will either starve to death, die of lack of water, heat exhaustion (if in the warmer months), or get eaten by predators. A captive raised parrot does not know how to look for predators nor how to be wary. THESE SKILLS ARE TAUGHT. For a parrot almost NOTHING IS INSTINCTIVE. Just like humans, they learn almost everything they know after birth.

It is VERY IMPORTANT that people stop buying parrots on impulse and recognize that no parrot, not a budgie, not a cockatiel, not a Quaker, or Goffin cockatoo, or any other parrot, is a toy. Buying a parrot is SERIOUS BUSINESS and a LONG TERM COMMITMENT. If you have any doubts that you can engage in this big commitment DO NOT GET A PARROT. See http://www.examiner.com/x-13809-NY-Aviculture-Examiner~y2009m7d19-Aviculture-101-companion-bird-basics.

4) DON’T CRAMP ME WITH A TINY CAGE. A budgie is not a zebra finch. A budgie is 7” long and from 40-50 grams. This means a budgie needs a cage bigger than your typical 18”x20”x20” or smaller “parakeet” cage sold in pet stores. Such a cage works as a TRAVEL CAGE, but it’s no permanent home to live in all the time. Give your budgie a cage at least 24”x24”x 20” with bar spacing 3/8” to 5/8”. The bigger the better. Professional aviaries for budgies can cost thousands of dollars. A more reasonable compromise for the recession minded aviculturist who wants to give their budgies space to fly while at work is the Caitec Flight Cage at http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=5059+10346+9288&pcatid=9288. Of note—you must change the perches and will want to switch the food dishes and put them high up. Use water bottles for ease of use and to keep their water clean of droppings.

5) PROPER PERCHES ARE A MUST. Do not put dowel rod perches in their cages! Dowel rod perches lead to arthritis and bumble foot. They need NATURAL PERCHES. Use natural woods like java and grapevine. Keep manzanita to a minimum because it’s very slippery and provides no friction for their nails like java and grapevine. Petco usually carries grapevine. Email this examiner at laurelarockefeller@gmail.com for information on additional sources for perches and other supplies for your cage setup (perches, toys, etc.). Rope perches are fine if they are constantly trimmed for loose threads and balanced with wood.

6) NEVER RUN YOUR CEILING FANS WHEN YOUR BUDGIE’S CAGE IS OPEN. Even if your budgie is not sitting outside of her cage at the time, a panicked budgie will fly out of the cage and straight into the ceiling fan to her death. In 1991 this examiner lost her budgie Noel to this exact accident during a thunderstorm. Noel was initially in her cage, but the thunderstorm caused a fright into the fan. It is a common story heard in many bird clubs. Make a habit of not running your ceiling fan in the bird’s presence. Keep it off if your budgie’s cage is there and don’t let your budgie go into those rooms until you turn it off. Remember that budgies are easier to control than most parrots. Assert that control to keep your birds safe.

7) BEGIN FINGERTAMING AND SPEECH LESSONS ON DAY ONE. Baby budgies talk. That is, if you work with them persistently. You cannot just bring one home and think she will. Instead, you must work to form the bond immediately and win her love from day one. Budgies are one of the few species of parrot that are not hand raised as chicks. Instead, breeders let the parents do all the rearing as they would in the wild, so your budgie is coming to you even less different from a wild bird than normal. Not like a cockatiel or a macaw where usually the chicks have received some feedings by human hands and experienced human tenderness from a very early age so they will be tamer. Baby budgies have not learned that lesson yet; it’s up to YOU to teach it. EXPECT TO BE BITTEN EARLY ON. A budgie bite will hurt, but it is NOTHING compared to what a larger bird can do. 

The first night you have your budgie, begin speech lessons. Assuming you have chosen a name, the phrase this examiner learned to teach and was successful with is, “_______ (bird’s name) is a pretty bird.” Say this phrase over and over again for 5 solid minutes to your bird. Yes, that’s a LOT of times, but it’s what your bird needs to hear. Do this 2-4 times per day. Yes, your family will get tired of hearing it, but it works.   Do this until your bird says it. It took about 4 weeks for a budgie named Frodo. That’s all it took for him to begin picking up on virtually everything else. As a psychology major at the University of Nebraska, this examiner kept data on his progress.  Five months after starting Frodo’s speech lessons, Frodo said 40 new words and phrases PER DAY.

As for taming, each bird is different. Approach with a FLAT HAND or TWO FINGERS. Most birds do not trust just one finger because they recognize that human flesh is different than a tree; we just aren’t as strong to support their weight. Say “step up” when you press your hand against your budgie’s breast to make your bird step onto your hand. You may have to chase her a little to be able to do so. This is fine.

To get your bird used to you, bring her out of the cage (remember to secure windows, doors, turn of ceiling fans, and remove any predators from the room) and do something we call “laddering.” The natural impulse of any bird is to climb, especially among parrots since their feet are uniquely designed for the purpose. In laddering we offer one hand, then the next to encourage our birds to only climb between our hands. Each time your budgie moves to the next hand, assuming it is an upward motion, say “step up.” If your bird is moving DOWN say “step DOWN.” Try to ladder for at least five minutes each session. Reward with treats throughout if you can. Budgies like SPRAY MILLET and OATS (treat oats is easily found in your bird section of any pet store). A shallow dish is great for giving the oats treat if she won’t accept it from your palm.

8) GIVE YOUR BUDGIES LOTS OF PROPERLY SIZED TOYS. Toys are essential for any parrot, but for budgies, getting a toy that is not too big or small is essential. Most budgies like at least one mirror, including on a weevil-like mirror toy that the bird can peck at like a punching ball that is put on the floor. Natural toys with balsa wood, paper, and vine balls, just to name a few components are also enjoyed. Look for “small bird” or “parakeet” size when shopping for toys. Remember that your bird or birds will be INDIVIDUALS with her toys, so if she doesn’t seem to like one toy or kind of toys, try something else. EVERY BIRD will play with SOMETHING—it’s just a matter of figuring out what your particular bird like. Also, as a rule, try to make sure you have at least one toy your bird can destroy and one your bird can preen. Preening toys are especially important if your bird is alone.

9) TWO (OR TWENTY) BUDGIES IS BETTER THAN ONE—In the wild, budgerigars fly in massive flocks that sometimes darken the sky from the vantage point of those watching them approach. In the wild, a solitary budgie is dinner for a falcon or other predator. While no parrot likes to be alone, budgies are known for their especially large flocks. They get lonely if they are by themselves. They need lots of attention—from their human flock members and from other parrots in the home.

Clearly the best choice for a budgie is another budgie. Lovebirds, cockatiels, canaries, finches, Quakers and parrotlets are also good choices for friends. While in some cases, budgies can be housed successfully in the same cage as most of these species (not Quakers, they are very territorial), the safer choice for your birds is to house them by species to reduce fighting, injury, and even death. Playtime should be supervised and good judgment used to prevent your birds from hurting each other. Separate any birds that look like they are bullying or trying to harm each other. Remember that blood loss in any bird is a very serious thing—it does not take much for them to bleed to death. Keep an emergency avian vet number handy and where you can find it quickly at all times. If you do not have an avian vet, I highly recommend the Center for Avian and Exotic Medicine in Manhattan at 88^th and Columbus Ave. Their phone number is 212-501-9513. Fax is 212-501-9614.   Always supervise your birds’ play time and be prepared to call the vet at the first sign of trouble. Remember that parrots hide their injuries and their illness, so if you think their might be something wrong with your bird, there probably is.

Budgerigar Planet

This six week old baby is the normal color for a budgie in the wild:  green and yellow.  Note the lines on the forehead and the ambiguous color in the cere--neither the bright blue-purple of the males nor the grey or brown of the female.

10) THE CERE IS THE KEY TO SEXING YOUR ADULT BUDGIE. First, let’s establish that you cannot sex your budgie until she or he reaches puberty—around the age of 3 months. You will be able to gauge whether or not a budgie is a baby or if she or he is over 3 months by the number of lines on the forehead. In a mature budgie, the forehead will be a solid color all the way up to the crown (about 5/8” for your average sized bird). The more lines (that is, the closer to the beak the lines start), the younger the bird. Baby budgies are easier to train and more receptive to speech lessons and to being handled. Their ceres have a neutral, dark purplish kind of color that is quite different from the adult males’. As baby birds age, the forehead lines are molted out to solid feathers (this happens quite rapidly) so that by 3-4 months age they have a completely adult appearance. Other feathers might molt out and be replaced by brighter, more adult versions, especially with color mutations.

Despite what yahoo answers claims, the forehead of a budgie is not necessary white. A white forehead can only happen with color mutations. A normal budgie is green with a yellow head (and therefore a yellow FOREHEAD). Budgies can be any number of colors with more color mutations being produced all the time from the original mutations of 28 years ago like lutino and pied and just the blue as an alternate to the green of the wild. Albinos, violets, opaline, cinnamon, lacewing, saddleback, and spangle are just a few of the new colors and mutations available today that were not readily available 28 years ago when this examiner first started enjoying budgerigar aviculture (http://www.budgieplace.com/colorsguide.html). Regardless of the mutation though, males (properly referred to as “cocks”) will have a blue-purple cere and the females (“hens”) will have grey or brown ceres. This is not altered in lutinos and albinos, according to the Color Guide cited above—a change in budgies from cockatiels where the cere DOES change to pink. 

In summary, having a budgerigar is a rewarding experience. But because budgies are parrots, keeping them is no less a responsibility than keeping a cockatiel, an Alexandrine parakeet, a conure, a blue and gold macaw, or an umbrella cockatoo. With a lifespan of over 10 years, budgerigars are not for those with a short attention span like very young children or those who are uncertain if they are willing or able to make aviculture their long term investment of time, energy, and money. Parrots take a lot of patience. Even tiny parrots like budgies take a willingness to love and accept them when they destroy potentially expensive and precious belongings. Such destructiveness can be refocused from your favorite furniture to a wide range of size-appropriate toys designed for budgies and other small parrots that will engage them mentally and keep their beaks busy where you want them.

With proper caging, perches, and socialization from us and other birds in their flocks, and of course plenty of interaction outside of their cages, budgerigars make exceptional companions. It is no wonder that they remain our favorite companion bird. Yet while we love to love budgies, it is always important to treat them kindly and responsibly and always respect them as living beings. The tragedy of budgies is that we sell them for so little and therefore cheapen their lives so much. What people pay a lot for, they tend to treasure more and give greater pause to buying. This examiner has also watched people at a Brooklyn petland and noticed how much price shapes the perceptions of those looking at the birds in terms of the types of care required and difficulty in caring for the bird. Always the African greys and Umbrella cockatoos were assumed harder just because of price, even though the selection usually included cockatiels (which share most of the same behavioral traits as the umbrellas in terms of training and temperament), at least one species of conure, and Quaker parakeets along with the budgies. The cockatiels were assumed easier to care for than the Quakers just because they were often lower priced even though the cockatiels, as cockatoos, are driven by drama rewards and have that extra challenge in their training.

In other words, price has nothing to do with how to care for your parrot, yet our society keeps making assumptions about birds based on money. This of course always puts the budgie in the disposable category, abused, ignored, lonely, and usually in a cage way too small for her. She rarely has appropriate perches for her cage (do not EVER use those plastic perches that come with some cages, even for your travel cage) much less toys. Many times her owners forget to give her fresh water and food EVERY DAY because they do not realize that budgies hull their seeds; what seems like a full seed cup may be empty. So, as wasteful as it seems, ALWAYS EMPTY AND REFILL THE FOOD DISHES. It’s also good to provide fresh fruits and veggies (cooked yams is an excellent choice) at least one a week. Give your bird a little boiled egg at least one a month, especially if you have a female, for extra protein. And yes, your bird will eat cooked chicken, steak, or pork. Though parrots will only kill insects in a pinch, in captivity, they enjoy cooked meat. 

Last, provide a mineral block for your budgie to give her some calcium. Though cuttlebones are fine, mineral blocks provide not only calcium, but trace minerals that your bird will also need. It’s like giving her a multi-vitamin—without putting powder on her food or in her water.

With all these tips and tricks, you should be on your way to stewardship with your budgie. And remember, should you find yourself with an unwanted budgie, parrot rescues do accept them and adopt them out. Should you find yourself wanting a budgie, consider adopting first from a rescue. Nearly every budgie that comes into a rescue is available for adoption after some rehab time, so ASK. You will save a life and make a bird very happy.

Next time…more parakeets.