Marion Nestle declares a food revolution at Fair Food Farmstand grand opening

Dr. Marion Nestle speaks at Fair Food Farmstand opening (Photo by MMKing)

“We are in the midst of a food revolution,” said Dr. Marion Nestle on Friday, October 4, 2009, and Fair Food Farmstand is right in the midst of the action.

Dr. Nestle was speaking at the grand opening of Fair Food’s new location in the Reading Terminal Market which doubles the square footage of the merchant providing locally grown and produced foods from more than 90 local farms.

• See a slideshow of the opening of the new Fair Food Farmstand

Ten years ago, Dr. Nestle remarked, the idea of local food as provided by Fair Food would have been impossible. However, last year, the number of small farms increased in percentage terms all over the U.S. She characterized this movement as “grass roots democracy that is revitalizing rural America.”

It is not surprising that the movement should have taken root at the Reading Terminal Market which, according to its General Manager Paul Steinke, “has served as a link between our rural and urban communities” since its founding in 1892.

According to Ann Karlen, its executive director, Fair Food is “dedicated to promoting a healthy sustainable food system for our region.” She started the farmstand as a once a week folding table in the corner of the market six years ago, and built it into the city’s only 7 days a week 365 days a year local farmstand. Fair Food relies heavily on volunteers to staff its operations.

The Farmstand’s sustainability extends to renovations to its new space which relied mostly on recycled materials, locally sourced wood and recycled telephone poles. Checkout counters are constructed of chalkboards salvaged from Philadelphia public schools.

Dr. Nestle is a renowned nutrition and food policy expert who teaches food sociology and food as a social movement at New York University. Karlen was thrilled to have Dr. Nestle speak, noting that the professor is a “rock star” in the Fair Food offices.

Although they did not know each other personally, both women are members of Les Dames D’Escoffier International, which was holding its annual meeting this weekend in Philadelphia at the Sofitel Hotel. LDEI is a by-invitation-only organization of women in the nutrition, food, beverage and hospitality industries.