Natural hair: More than just afros, braids and locks.

For most the term natural hair immediately brings to mind Angela’s flowing fro, Stevie‘s beaded braids or Whoopi’s lengthy locks. Because most African-American hair types range from loosely curled to tightly coiled, many think of natural hair as less versatile than its straight counterpart when it comes to styling. While this may have been the case in previous decades, present day styling options for natural hair are as varied as the strands that comprise them. Whether salon coiffed or maintained at home, styling natural hair can light your creative spark and play a part in your individual sense of expression.

Two-strand twists are a favourite in the natural hair community because of their beauty and ease of application. Also known as Senegalese twists, this style is created similar to braids, but uses two strands of hair instead of three (hence the name). There are two different ways to create two-strand twists. The first way is section hair like you would if you were braiding, separate small sections into two portions, and twist those portions around one another until reaching the end. The second way is to follow the first two steps, but before twisting the two strands around each other, coil each strand separately and then twist them together. This style can be expertly executed with dry hair, but sets better if done while hair is wet. Although product is not necessary, a light hair lotion or twisting gel can be used to aid in holding the style. Twists can be dryer set or allowed to air dry to set.

Another variation on two-strands are flat twists, which are created using the exact same technique you’d use for cornrows, but with two strands of hair instead of three. Flat twists provide a neat, uniform style that can be worn on their own or twisted into ponytails for a sexy and dramatic flair.

Twist outs and crinkle sets are yet another natural hair mainstay, showcasing tresses full of beautifully defined ringlets or waves. This style is created simply by undoing twists or braids, applying a light oil for moisture and finger combing to perfection. Typically the best twist and braid outs are the result of twists or braids that have been dryer set or allowed to remain intact for three to four days. The texture of the style is dependent on the type of product used to set the twists or braids initially, so the lighter the product the softer the texture. Twist outs and crinkle sets can be refreshed after they are slept on by misting lightly with water or applying a small amount of oil and finger combing

Love the ultra curly look? Well a straw or roller set is the way to go. While this style can be a little bit trickier to master than two-strand twists, the results are a wonderfully coiled mane that begs to be touched. To execute this style you’ll need to start with wet hair, a moisturizing product (if desired) straws and bobby pins or self securing curl rods. Once you've applied your moisturizer, part hair in small sections, stretch and curl the hair in spirals around the length of the straw or rod. If using straws, the hair will need to be secured with a bobby pin on the opposite end. Like with twists, hair can be dryer set using a hooded dryer, or allowed to air dry to set.

For those who adore a funky, free style, wash outs or wash ‘n go’s are perfect for you. Utilizing nothing more than water, a cleansing product, a good conditioner, your fingers and the air you breathe, wash outs are a virtually maintenance free style solution for the natural hair wearer that’s always on the go. Simply wash your hair, condition it and add a moisturizing product, finger style and allow to air dry.

Comb or finger coils are generally used to start locs but can also be worn for short periods of time as a neat style on their own. Easier to create than two-strands or flat twist, comb coils are created by separating your wet hair into sections, like with the other styles, and twist the hair around the end of a rat tail comb. For finger coils, you simply twirl single sections around your finger. Working from the root of the individual section, continue to coil the hair, using the comb end or your fingers, all the way down to its end. Just like with the previous styles, product is not needed to hold the coils but can be used, and hair can be set by either sitting under a hood dryer or allowing to air dry.

Taking finger coils to a whole other level, Bantu Knots are a gorgeous work of natural hair styling artistry. The sections you make for Bantu Knots will be bigger than those for standalone coil, and the coils won’t be as tight, but the beginning premise is still the same. Once the finger coil is set, the knot is formed by wrapping the formed coil around itself, and then secured by tucking the end under the knot. Bantu knots can be used to style wet or dry hair and require little or no product to be properly formed.

While it is considered a “non-natural” style because heat styling changes the temporary texture of the hair, press and curls have been used to fashion natural hair for decades. This style is performed by first straightening dried hair in sections using an electric or stove straightening comb or flat iron, and then curling the straightened sections with an electric or stove curling iron. This styling option can produce relaxer-like results if properly implemented and it is always recommended that a protectant product is used when applying any amount of heat to the hair.

There are many different variations of the styles listed here, such as curled two strand twists and twist outs from Bantu knots, and Youtube is filled with video tutorials on how to achieve them.

Although many natural hair wearers choose one style that fits them and stick with it as they learn their hair, it’s good to know that the versatility of natural hair makes it possible to change styles whenever the mood strikes.