How often should natural hair be washed?

Nothing beats the look and feel of hair that is fresh and clean or a scalp that is free of buildup. Styles hold better, the hair takes on a lustrous, well nourished appearance and the scalp itself is free to breathe. Like their chemically straightened counterparts, many natural hair wearers subscribe to the belief that clean hair is the foundation for healthy hair and make hair washing the cornerstone of their daily maintenance routine.

According to an 2009 NPR article by Allison Aubrey, Proctor and Gamble statistics show that Americans who style their hair at home shampoo an average of four times within a week, whether their hair is natural of chemically processed. This is a relatively new adage, Aubrey states, evolving from the early 1900’s when the average wash increased from once monthly at the advice of a New York Times article believed to have been created to improve bath products sales. While we all agree washing is necessary, can “serial poo’ing” (washing more than once or twice a week) be causing undue stress to the hair?

It’s no secret that Americans are largely obsessed with cleanliness, so the rise in washing frequency may stem from adopting the belief that when hair takes on an oily or dull appearance it is “dirty” and this “dirt” – made up of oil deposits, dead skin cells and other atmospheric elements – is largely unhygienic. While this is true to a degree what we fail to realize is the human body is a wonderfully constructed organism, equipped with self-regulating properties, and nowhere is that more evident than in the hair. In all of its stages, and with very little help from us, hair maintains itself by shedding ineffectual properties on a strand by strand basis. The “icky buildup” many seek to rid their scalps from is actually a beneficial compound known as acid mantle – a combination of sebum, lipids and sweat. While this may sound gross to many, acid mantle is the body’s very own conditioning component and defense against viruses or other containment.

Under normal circumstances, sebum production is well regulated based on diet, adequate hormone production and personal care practices. Occasionally the process is thrown into natural overproduction or underproduction, which can result in excessively oily or dry hair, and needs to be regulated medically. Other times, it is our own maintenance habits and over-washing that are the culprits.

Despite their cleansing claims, commercial shampoos can leave behind their own residue that even the most ardent of rinsing cannot remove. Over time the residue that is left behind can clog the hair follicle, and in turn strip the sebaceous gland of its ability to balance sebum production, resulting in possible hair loss and the increased reliance on commercial products. In addition to this, certain ingredients in commercial cleansing products are “harsh” and can smooth the hair’s cuticle and alter its natural ph level, causing breakage.

For most African-American natural hair wearers, because the structure of curly hair does not produce an over abundance of sebum, washing once or twice a week is par for the course. Tarius, a Houston based Administrative Assistant, subscribes a once weekly routine as styling permits.

“When I wore weaves I’d wash each Friday whenever I took my hair down.” Tarius explains. “Now I follow the same routine.”

Some opt for longer bouts between shampooing, using cleansing alternatives like conditioner only treatments.

“I do it once a month,” states Evelyn, another Houston natural who wears locs. “When I retighten my locs I use actual shampoo, but typically I co-wash every other week.”

Brittany, a Delaware, student and Behavioural Specialist shares Evelyn’s routine.

“Because I work out five days out of the week, I co-wash bi-weekly to get rid of sweat and other icky stuff,” she expresses. “I only shampoo as needed.”

But for those who choose non-shampoo cleaning options like dry washes with baking soda or conditioner only formulas, the threat of damage is still not decreased all that significantly. Although these maybe gentler options, traces of their presence is still left on the hair, and if overused can cause the same problems as overusing shampoo. A more organic no-poo option that can be used by itself or after co-washes, is rinsing the hair with apple cider vinegar, a natural hair staple that cut down on natural and product buildup without affecting the hair’s porosity.

So how often should you clean and condition your hair? Well that is largely dependent on your hair type, the state of their scalp and specific hair needs. In a 2009 NPR Web chat concerning the issue, Dr. Michelle Hanjani , Assistant Professor of Clinical Dermatology at Columbia University offers this rule:

“Frequency of hair washing should be determined by the type of hair; curly, wavy, versus straight. The more curly the hair, the less hair washing should take place. In general, hair will look better, with more shine and improved texture, if washed less frequently. I wouldn't recommend washing hair more than 2 to 3 times weekly unless the hair is soiled. Scalp sebum production gradually adjusts to coincide with the frequency of hair washing.”

While everyone’s routine will be different, a general rule of thumb is to “listen” to what your hair tells you.

“In the summer I co-wash bi-weekly and shampoo once a month. In winter, I like to shampoo once a week,” declares Georgia natural Blogger/Vlogger TheSistahChick. “This practice is per my hair’s needs. I listen very closely to what it wants, although I didn’t use to.”

Another point to consider, even if your cleaning is infrequent, the amount of product you use during each wash. Typically, a quarter sized dollop of shampoo and/or half dollar dollop of conditioner are adequate enough to meet your cleaning needs, and the “lather, rinse, repeat” rule need not apply.

There are exceptions to every rule, as Selena, a Michigan Coding and Design Specialist proves.

“I wash my hair daily. It started when I was in the Air Force and just developed into a habit. I knew a loctician who said it was okay to wash your hair every day as long as you keep it properly moisturized. I’ve never had a problem with dry hair, and since I use product on my hair I only like to use them on freshly washed hair.

As is the case with all products, your hair and scalp’s look and feel is the best evidence as to whether you are over doing your cleansing routine. If hair seems dull, dry and listless after cleaning, you may need to change products, or cut back on washing.