Photo by Kim Palacios
Healdsburg is the gateway to north coast wine country. Just 30 minutes northwest of Calistoga, it sits at the junction of the Russian River, Alexander, and Dry Creek Valley wine regions. With a quaint main street lined with mom and pop stores, a town square complete with babies being strolled and townspeople enjoying ice cream cones, and a farmer’s market on Saturdays, it is the embodiment of small town charm. It is a calm—almost sleepy—town with a blanket of quiet that is lifted only by the occasional passing car and the bubbling of laughter from patrons at outdoor restaurants. Tucked away on a side street is an unexpected treasure, an inn for travelers looking to mingle the simplicity of everyday life with the sublimity of luxury accommodations. It is Healdsburg’s crown jewel: Les Mars Hôtel.
Owned and run by the American-born Mars family, Les Mars Hôtel is an indulgent destination for Europhiles. While dozens of hotels claim fidelity to European style, this is one of the few to pull it off. A French château building opens to a stately lobby. The muted cream and butter base of travertine floors and fine fabrics are contrasted by dark woods, vibrant floral displays and a 17th century Flemish tapestry that reminds me of afternoons strolling through the Musée d’Orsay. Add in more pre-19th century antiques and a gorgeous grand staircase and nostalgia for Vienna, Paris, and London abound. This splendid sense of being an esteemed visitor to a fine European home follows through to the guest rooms, which pair even finer furnishings with more detailed design.
Though wine and cheese are served nightly in the library, as is complimentary breakfast in the morning, you may be tempted to remain in your room. The deep Jacuzzi tub, Versai linens, fireplace, and a complimentary bottle of wine were all the incentive I needed to stay indoors for awhile to enjoy a good novel, a good soak, and a good nap. When I awoke in the early evening, I ventured downstairs to Cyrus, the adjoining fine dining restaurant with a full bar and a known penchant for artisan cocktails. For travelers whose vacation would be incomplete without such amenities, Les Mars Hôtel offers a clear advantage over other inns.
And, when it does come time to venture out, you’ll find there is plenty to do. Wineries in the Russian River, Alexander, and Dry Creek Valleys are smaller than those of Napa and Sonoma, which allows for more intimate tastings that often find guests face to face with winery owners. Healdsburg’s central location also allows for day trips to go biking, hiking, shopping and fun-seeking across a wide radius. Guests visiting from land-locked states enjoy the close proximity of Bodega Bay, a 45-minute drive from the hotel. And the Santa Rosa Airport—which welcomes direct flights from Los Angeles, Seattle, and Las Vegas—makes a rejuvenating weekend at Les Mars Hôtel even more accessible to out of town guests.
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