One of the best parts of Indian cuisine is the explosion of spices that hit every possible taste bud. Then there’s the array and depth of flavors that surprise and radiate with each bite. The waitress said it best by describing the food as a “symphony of spices”.

Lunch at East India Co. Grill & Bar is a destination restaurant to be sure. Located on the backside of the main library in downtown Portland, it could be one of those places where passersby find themselves but word of mouth is what brings loyal patrons back for more. At this location since December 2007, East India Co. has garnered a bit of passion for genuine East Indian fare with a devoted following.

The authenticity and extensive menu exceeds anything in the area. While the popularity of speedy Indian buffets are acceptable at other local eateries, ordering one of the three specialties, The Colonel’s Lunch, the Viceroy’s Lunch or the East India Co. Lunch, could make the buffet procession a thing of the past.

All lunches are provided with salad -- a mixture of orange segments, sliced red and green pepper, cucumbers and carrots drizzled lightly with lemon juice and a shake of salt and pepper--, billowy naan bread (garlic naan available for the asking) and khadi, a yogurt based stew. Before ordering, a basket of fresh pappadams arrives with tangy tamarind chutney and fiery mint chili sauce for dipping. The piping hot entrees arrive in small copper vessels but don’t let what appear to be petite portions deceive. You will go away fully content.

The Colonel’s Lunch ($8.95) is a choice of vegetarian or chicken ‘Curry of the Day’ accompanied with spiced basmati rice.

The Viceroy’s Lunch ($12.95) begins with samosa chaat, a delicate pastry with spiced potatoes, peas and traces of cardamom over zesty garbanzo beans with tamarind chutney. Next, choose between murgh kebab (boneless chicken), seekh kebab (minced lamb) or the vegetarian paneer pikka kebab – tandoor grilled paneer cheese coated with a deep orange-red chili hue and a tofu texture served with sun-dried red pepper; one bite sweet, the next sour. After that comes ‘Curry of the Day’. The vegetable curry is a blend of green beans, cauliflower and carrots in a robust cashew cream sauce with hints of ginger served with basmati rice. A dessert of rice pudding tops it off.

The East India Co. Lunch ($15.95) starts with pakora, the Indian equivalent to Japanese vegetable tempura, served with chutney. What follows is muchli ka tikka -- grilled seasonal fish marinated with roasted garlic, mustard, curry, fresh ginger and lemon -- or laziz paslian, tender lamb chops in a five-greens marinade grilled in the tandoor, followed by Curry of the Day, then dessert.

Indian pickles ($2.00) are a great accompaniment to any dish. These are not for the faint of palate. The experience of the raw, sun-dried mangoes is indescribable and leaves you puckering for more. A traditional light and crispy Indian beer, Krait, complements all food agreeably.

The attentive, conversant service and stylish ambience are always present. If East India Co. had one flaw at all is was the absence of fennel and candy to help digest all the mouth watering goodness. Maybe that comes only at the end of buffets.

East India Co. Grill & Bar
821 SW 11th Avenue, Portland 97205
www.eastindiacopdx.com
(503) 227-8815
Open Monday-Saturday
Lunch 11:30-2:30
Happy Hour 4:00-7:00
Dinner 5:00-10:00

Try your hand at Lamb Khorma at home.  Check out this video* by the folks at Epicurious.

*Not endorsed by East India Co. Grill & Bar