Malt lovers rejoice: Gordon & Macphail Collection is in Oregon

Don't let the light straw color fool you: this is full on aroma and flavor in the mouth.  It's floral and grassy, with the tang of citrus and spice.  Dry and peppery on the palate, with woody flavors of cedar and pine, it softens to a lovely, soft, fruity close.  The barrel regimen is a combination of refill sherry casks and bourbon casks.  Scapa Distillery is located in the Orkney Islands, just a bit across the water from the famed Highland Park Distillery.  It is somewhat similar to Highland Park, but sufficiently different to present an intriguing contrast.Controversy seems to collect around some of the more...extravagant...expressions of Islay malts.  No controversy here, though: this is a lighter styled malt with roasted aromas, a slight sweetness, fruit, and earthiness. Even at this relatively young age there's an underlying spice and the smell of tobacco and oiled leather.  One of the most accessible Islay malts you're likely to find.This golden yellow and youthfully exuberant malt has brash citrus tones balanced by sweetness from refill sherry cask aging.  The requisite malty notes are there, with hints of vanilla and the tang of cedar.  It's a bold young malt expression---and sadly, from a distillery that has since gone out of production.View the list »
Gordon & Macphail Malt Collection

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For lovers of fine and rare scotch whisky, there’s sincerely good news to report. The venerable firm of Gordon & Macphail is now releasing its portfolio of scotch in Oregon.

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For over 115 years, Gordon & Macphail has worked to become the world’s leading malt whisky specialist---but they have pursued a somewhat different business model, choosing to purchase new make malt spirit from separate distilleries throughout Scotland and barrel aging and blending in their own cellars.

In many cases, when allowed, Gordon & Macphail elects to label the single malt scotch with the name of the distillery. For other bottlings they might label it as part of the Gordon & Macphail Connoisseur’s Collection or The Macphail's Collection.

It wasn’t until 1993 that Gordon & Macphail acquired their own distillery, when they purchased the old Benromach Distillery, the smallest distillery operating in Speyside. Benromach released their first single malt scotch in 1996.

Now the Gordon & Macphail company offers over 300 separate bottlings from both Benromach and their acquired whiskys, and most of the great distillery names appear in their selection list, with single malt scotches dating back to 1936.

Thanks to Vinum Importing, these scotches are now available in Oregon in small amounts. They can be accessed through the OLCC system, but most likely will be found in Portland area stores, specifically Hollywood, Hyland Hills, and Pearl Specialty.

During a recent tasting by Gordon & Macphail, the following scotches were tasted (see list):

View the list
  • This golden yellow and youthfully exuberant malt has brash citrus tones balanced by sweetness from refill sherry cask aging.  The requisite malty notes are there, with hints of vanilla and the tang of cedar.  It's a bold young malt expression---and sadly, from a distillery that has since gone out of production.
  • Controversy seems to collect around some of the more...extravagant...expressions of Islay malts.  No controversy here, though: this is a lighter styled malt with roasted aromas, a slight sweetness, fruit, and earthiness. Even at this relatively young age there's an underlying spice and the smell of tobacco and oiled leather.  One of the most accessible Islay malts you're likely to find.
  • Don't let the light straw color fool you: this is full on aroma and flavor in the mouth.  It's floral and grassy, with the tang of citrus and spice.  Dry and peppery on the palate, with woody flavors of cedar and pine, it softens to a lovely, soft, fruity close.  The barrel regimen is a combination of refill sherry casks and bourbon casks.  Scapa Distillery is located in the Orkney Islands, just a bit across the water from the famed Highland Park Distillery.  It is somewhat similar to Highland Park, but sufficiently different to present an intriguing contrast.
  • Ah, the loveliness of well-aged malt whisky!  This rich amber colored malt also carries rich, intense fruit-cake aromas, with candied burnt orange peel prevalent.  There's sweet spice, soft sherry and a smoky edge to it all.  The fifteen years of first fill sherry cask aging is readily apparent in this perfectly tuned malt.
  • Benromach has a checkered past (several owners and out of commission for a while), but now a bright future since being purchased by Gordon & Macphail in 1993.The sherry influence shows through cleanly in this malt, with rich fruit, roasted nuts, and chocolate mixed with cinnamon spices.  The red berry fruits mix nicely with the malt creaminess and the peat effect is nicely balanced without being dominating.  A surprisingly long and persistent finish makes this malt a keeper.
  • For those who love their peat reek, Benromach hasn't forgotten you.  The Benromach Peat Smoke is crafted especially to showcase the combination of rich sherry cask tones with the darker, broody tang of peat smoke.  Think of green apples and cigar smoke and you'll have an idea of what Benromach Peat Smoke tastes like.
  • This lovely pale golden malt is a gorgeous combination of all that's lovely in scotch whisky. Although from Islay, it's as delicate and balanced as you're likely to find.  There's sweet smoke-cured bacon fat, peppery spice, a smooth, heavy, almost oily creaminess, and woodsmoke, all in a seamless balance.  This has everything a malt lover could possibly want.
  • The recipe for success here is simple: take Glenrothes Distillery malt spirit and put it in first fill sherry casks for 30 years.  That 30 years of maturation burnishes off all the rough edges and smooths out this malt whisky until it's soft as a baby's breath on your cheek.  There's a light hint of wood polish that subsides quickly to reeal creamy chocolate and a lacework of smoke.  But the overwhelming impression of this malt is the soft, delicate, rounded sweetness that lingers forever.  Adding just a bit of water brings out even more aroma and flavor.
View the list

, Portland Spirits Examiner

An enthusiastic lover of wine and spirits, Mr. Harden left a career in academia to follow his other muse for the last 27 years, trekking around the world to the great producing regions. Recently referred to as a veritable walking omnibus of wine and spirits knowledge, he has experienced every...

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