Set in stone: options for the engagement ring (part 2 of 3)

Flush, bezel, tension, and invisible settings

 Flush Setting

A flush setting is made by creating a tapered hole in which the diamond sits with the surrounding metal pressed around -- but not over -- its rim, providing a smooth, sleek surface. Flush settings provide a very clean, modern look. The danger of flush settings is that if done improperly, they can  loosen, causing the loss of  the stone.

Bezel Setting

A bezel is a metal band that wraps around a circular diamond to hold it in place. The metal ring surrounds the diamond is called the collet.  You may also see partial bezels which only surround the sides of the stone. Bezels provide good protection for the stone and are known for their durability. The metal can also accentuate a diamond, making it look larger than it would in a prong setting.  In contrast to the flush setting, which has no collar surrounding the stone, the bezel is bolder and more noticeable.  Bezels also provide a very smooth surface unlikely to snag on hair or clothing. Partial bezels only arc across a portion of the stone.  Be certain that the setting is secure enough to hold the stone without problems.

Tension Setting

Tension settings are formed by the band of ring itself holding the stone in place, so that the diamond appears suspended in air.  Tension engagement ring settings are quite expensive because they must be individually sized; the ring cannot be resized without losing the necessary strength to protect the stone.  Some jewelers warn customers against this style of setting because, though it is intended to hold the stone securely, it is possible for the ring to be struck in such a way that it will loosen its grip on the stone, which may then be lost.

Invisible Settings

The setting is called invisible because the diamond is bound to the ring without immediately visible means. Typically, the setting involves a stable cup the stone can rest in; that cup is then attached to the band in a bypass or split design. The effect is similar to a tension setting but, unlike the tension setting, this style of ring could be resized if necessary.

More intricate settings include the various forms of channel settings, pave settings, bead settings, accented settings, and three stone settings to be covered in part 3.

 To read part 1 of this article and to find links to other relevant articles click here