Hottest fine jewelry trend? Cool looks for less...

S&R Design's new thinly sliced rutilated quartz 
pendant in 18k gold with diamonds

This week, New York hosts one of the jewelry industry’s big trade events… sort of what Fashion Week is for the fashion world, but without the celebrities, the TV crews and the general mayhem. Instead, just beautiful new fine jewelry (ie, precious or semi-precious pieces with no plated or filled metals and no fake stones) on display for buyers and the press.

Given the economy, I honestly didn’t have high expectations. But I have to hand it to designers because, instead of hawking old wares or abandoning creativity, they are actually pumping up their artistry, proving the old adage that necessity is the mother of invention. A few blinged-out years ago, the most successful designers were those who could use the most diamonds or those who had bazillion-dollar ad campaigns. To my style-trained eye, I actually find the jewelry this year to be much more fashionable and creative.

So, what are some of the results of this ingenuity? Well, generally: fashionable jewelry that offers big looks without being “costume” or fake. Specifically: I offer a few of my favorites from today (and please forgive the point-and-shoot-on-the-fly photography!):

• Combining sterling silver with fine craftsmanship, creativity and gold or semi-precious gems, like The Mazza & Company's new ring and cuff. The ring (below): silver is finished then overlaid with chunky rock crystal and set with beautiful blue topaz. This precious designer look retails for about $1,000. The cuff (below): beautifully brooding oxidized silver is accented with 18k gold and features "fine" jewelry details, like a hinged back and flawless finishing. The oxidized collection starts at about $400.
  
• Making precious gems smaller… not in the too-tiny-to-see way, but in creative ways that still offer an amazing look, but without the sticker shock. For example: this thinly sliced rutilated quartz line (right) by S&R Designs. In boom times, I never really thought about it but, really: if you’re looking for style and fine jewelry (these pieces include genuine diamond accents), you don’t really need your gemstone to be fat and bulky, do you? This necklace, in 18k gold, retails for about $1,800. It is available in sterling and diamonds for under $1,000.
• Combining old-school metals and craftsmanship with new-school materials. Here, the newest add-ons to the (now lighter-weight and less expensive) 18k gold pieces by Italian design firm Mattioli. The unique design (here, genius designer Licia Mattioli was inspired by the flying buttresses in Gothic architecture) remains, but check out this very cool laser-etched horn pendants (below). 
  

See the individual company’s sites for more information and where to buy. Meanwhile, check back or subscribe for more great finds here in the coming weeks...