I just had the pleasure to return to Sicily after close to 20 years. I wasn’t in the wine business the first time I went so this was a double treat. This island is just on the cusp of becoming a major tourist destination and I hope its wines receive the same appreciation as its ruins and food.
What struck me more than anything was the beauty of the indigenous grape varietals. We have seen a lot of (somewhat tasty) Nero d’Avola here, but I find other varietals such as Frappato and Nerello Mascalese to be equally—if not more—elegant and appealing. Sicilian white wines are also among the most overlooked, and most delicious, in the world. They blend a fair amount of Chardonnay with native varietals, like Greganico, Insolia and Grillo. These grapes on their own have a beautiful balance and acidity, can be consumed as an aperitif and are brilliant with food. What more could we want from a wine?
One of the obstacles to their success may be how hard some of these names are to pronounce. Or perhaps that Sicily has had (a currently non-merited) reputation as a bulk producer of low-cost wines and grapes that were sent up north to fortify wines from more noble regions in weak harvests.
I will share some of my favorites in future postings. One great place to try a unique Sicilian sparkler by the glass is Bar Bambino in the Mission. It’s a sparkling Nerello Mascalese called Passopisciaro Etna Rosso and it is delicious and refreshing. K&L also carries some Sicilian wines.
Cin cin,
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