Along the Rakiura Track, by Annika S. Hipple
Most people with a knowledge of geography know that New Zealand consists of two islands, but not everyone realizes that there’s a third island just off the southern end of the South Island. Stewart Island is a little-known gem that should be on the itinerary for any avid birdwatcher or hiker visiting New Zealand. At 674 square miles, the island is much smaller than the North and South Islands and has a permanent population of only around 400 people, most of whom live in the single town, Oban, on Halfmoon Bay.
According to Maori mythology, Stewart Island was Te Punga o te Waka a Maui, or “The Anchorstone of Maui’s Canoe.” In this story, Stewart Island provided the anchor for Maui and his crew as from their canoe, the South Island, they caught the great fish, the North Island. The more common Maori name for Stewart Island is Rakiura, “Land of Glowing Skies,” referring as much to the spectacular displays of Aurora Australis, the Southern Lights, as to the island’s magnificent sunsets.
Stewart Island is remote and wild, with only 15 miles of roads. Eighty-five percent of the island belongs to Rakiura National Park, established in 2002. The island has nearly 150 miles of hiking trails (or “tramping tracks” as New Zealanders call them), including the Rakiura Track, one of New Zealand’s great walks, which makes a 3-day circuit through podocarp forest and coastal habitat. For a more rugged exploration of the island’s varied landscapes, try the 10- to 14-day Northwest and Southern Circuits.
Stewart Island offers some of the best opportunities in New Zealand to spot native birds, including the kereru (native wood pigeon), tui, tomtit, weka, parakeet, and South Island kaka forest parrot. Many of these can be seen within the town limits of Oban, along trails through dense forest rich in tree ferns and seemingly miles from human habitation. Stewart Island is also the best place in New Zealand to spot the national bird, the kiwi, in the wild. Though solitary and nocturnal elsewhere, the kiwi of Stewart Island maintain family groups and sometimes feed during the day, making them slightly less elusive.
Several local operators offer half-, full- and multi-day hiking, kayaking, and birdwatching excursions on Stewart Island. I went on a birdwatching hike from Oban with Ruggedy Range Wilderness Experience, whose charming owner-guide, Furhana Ahmad, was very knowledgeable about both birds and native plants.
Stewart Island is reached by ferry from Bluff (one hour) or flight from Invercargill (20 minutes). Occasionally, cruise lines traveling between Milford Sound and the east coast of the South Island stop here for the day. The town of Oban offers a range of accommodation, including hostels, cabins, lodges, and motels.
For more info: Stewart Island Promotion Association, Ruggedy Range Wilderness Experience, Stewart Island Experience
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