What is a winter warmer? Well, the Beer Judge Certification website, www.bjcp.org, defines a winter warmer as a stronger, darker, spiced beer that often has a rich body and warming finish suggesting a good accompaniment for the cold winter season. Not all definitions require the addition of spices. Many consider dark, strong complex beers that warm the toes by the fire to also be a winter warmer and American versions tend to have a larger hop presence. There are many commercial examples such as Avery’s Old Jubilation, Samuel Smith’s Winter Welcome Warmer, Sam Adams Old Fezziwig Ale and list goes on. Check out BeerAdvocate for a more complete list of beers that are thought of as winter warmers.
When brewing a winter warmer, the timing is important. This is because these beers tend to be strong and complex. Drinking them before their time robs the beer of it deserved savoring. It will be harsh and many of the complexities take several months to develop. If a winter warmer is to be enjoyed this winter, the beer should be brewed now! For many homebrewers, the winter warmer is a special beer that is brewed around the holidays and then set aside to age until the following holiday season. The dark grains and rich body evolve over time to take on sherry notes, with dark fruit characteristics of plums and raisins. It is a true delight to drink by the roaring fire with family and friends.
High Gravity carries a winter warmer kit called Old St. Nick. It is based on Avery’s Old Jubilation Ale and a favorite of many Tulsa homebrewers.
Here is the recipe:
Ingredients (for extract version):
9 lbs Light LME
1 lbs Briess 2-row Pale Malt
0.50 lb. Carafa III
0.81 lb. Special Roast Malt
0.81 lb. Victory Malt
3.2 oz Turbinado Sugar
0.66 oz Northdown pellet hops (Bittering)
1.0 oz Northdown pellet hops (Flavor)
1.0 oz Northdown pellet hops (Finishing)
1 tsp. Irish moss
2/3 to 3/4 cup corn sugar to prime (optional)
Wyeast 1028
Procedures
Please read these instructions from beginning to end before you begin. All temperatures are in Fahrenheit.
A. If using Wyeast liquid yeast, activate the yeast 3-5 hours prior to pitching.
B. Following the cleanser package instructions, thoroughly clean and sanitize the following using No-Rinse cleanser.
Primary Fermenter
Grommeted Lid
Airlock
Hydrometer
Heat tolerant spoon
Thermometer (to monitor water temperature)
C. Place enough water into a 4 gallon or larger pot to completely cover specialty grains and heat to 154°. Place crushed grains in muslin grain bag and steep at 154° F for 30 minutes. DO NOT BOIL THE GRAINS. Carefully remove the grain bag and allow it to drain into the brewpot without squeezing. Sparge (slowly run water through) the grains with 2 gallons of 170° water. Discard the grain filled bag.
D. If needed, add enough water to bring to 3 gallons. Add the liquid malt extract. Bring to boil and use the following boiling schedule.
Beginning of boil: Add bittering hops (be sure to place the hops in the muslin hop bag). Bittering hops are boiled for the entire 60 minutes.
30 minutes: Add flavoring hops (add to existing hop bag). Flavoring hops are boiled for 30 minutes.
45 Minutes: Add Irish moss directly into boil.
60 Minutes: Add turbinado sugar and aroma hops (add to existing hop bag) and remove from heat.
E. Discard hops and cool the wort rapidly to about 80° F and transfer to fermenting vessel. Add enough cold water to bring wort level to 5 gallons. ****Note: cooling can be done quickly by placing the brewpot in the sink with ice water. Other methods are available to the homebrewer. Ask High Gravity for advice and instructions regarding wort cooling
F. Sanitize a hydrometer and take the Original Gravity reading. Write down this number for future reference. ****Note: please refer to hydrometer instructions to adjust for temperature variation.
G. Carefully open the yeast package and pour into the wort. There is no need to stir. Secure the lid onto the fermenter with the airlock in place (approximately half filled with clean water).
H. Place the fermenter in a warm area to maintain a temperature of 66° to 76° F. Keep the fermenter away from sunlight and fluorescent lights. You should notice bubbling in the airlock within 24 hours. Bubbling will slow down significantly and then stop completely after 3-10 days. ****optional: if transferring to a secondary vessel, allow the wort to remain in the primary fermenter for 3 to 7 days, then transfer to secondary vessel and let set for an additional 4-10 days before going to step I.
I. When bubbling has stopped, sanitize a hydrometer and take the Final Gravity reading. If this reading matches the reading specified in your recipe, then go to step J. If the reading is higher than the reading specified in your recipe, place the lid back onto the fermenter and allow the wort to sit a few more days and repeat this step. ****Note: your Final Gravity may not match exactly. The best way to determine whether or not your wort is finished is when the hydrometer reading is the same for 2 consecutive days.
J. Thoroughly clean and sanitize the following items using No-Rinse cleanser.
6.5 Gallon Bottling Bucket
Siphon Tubing
Racking Cane
Bottle filling wand
48 12 oz bottles
Bottle caps
Boil bottle caps in a few cups of water for 5 minutes to sterilize.
In small saucepan dissolve priming sugar in 1 cup clean water and boil for 5 minutes. Pour into the bottling bucket. Siphon beer from the fermenter to the bottling bucket, being sure to leave the sediment behind. The siphoning action should thoroughly blend the wort and the priming sugar. Fill bottles using the siphon tubing connected to the spigot at one end and the bottling wand at the other. Bottles should be filled to one inch from the top. Cap the bottles. Carbonate at room temperature for 2-3 weeks.
Store the beer for at least a few months to mellow and mature but this beer will continue to age for years.
Cheers and happy brewing!
Desiree Knott
High Gravity Homebrewing & Winemaking Supplies
7164 S Memorial
Tulsa, OK 74133
(918) 461-2605
desiree@highgravitybrew.com
http://www.highgravitybrew.com
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