Swig: This Historic Third Ward restaurant goes down smooth

When a restaurant is named for the act of imbibing, you expect the establishment to stand on its beverages alone. When that same restaurant draws you back for its victuals, then that’s considered a culinary victory. Don’t let the name fool you – when you come to Swig, come hungry, too.

Featuring large-portioned ‘small plates’ in addition to traditional entrees, the best way to enjoy this eatery is to grab a table outside - weather permitting - and share some nibbles and conversation. The small plates menu is eclectic and draws on flavors from India, Asia, the Mediterranean and south of the border. The standout is the tempura-battered sugar snap peas. These little golden and green gems are placed in a pinwheel around a tarragon-sour cream dipping sauce. The sauce is relatively lackluster; it doesn’t seem to enhance the flavor or texture of the pod itself, merely adding some unnecessary calories to an already semi-indulgent appetizer. This makes it very easy to set it aside without any pangs of longing.

Don’t you just love it when it’s that easy?

Anything deep-fried, including tempura, is not considered a healthy option. However there are varying degrees of ‘bad.’ Consider the vegetable that is being fried: Is it porous, like mushrooms, eggplant and zucchini? These kinds of vegetables absorb much more oil than other options like bell peppers, asparagus, and carrots. Thankfully Swig’s sugar snap peas fall into the latter category and maintain a delicate balance between crunchy and soft. The delight is when the warm and crunchy pod pops a sweet little pea onto your tongue… perfect pea heaven. The portion can easily be shared with three people or more – and the tempura batter skins easily slip off should you choose to alternate between a bare pod and one with a little crispy caloric jacket.

To follow up after this semi-indulgent appetizer, try the Roasted Portabella salad (always ask for dressing on the side – it is remarkable how most restaurants will swim your greens, rather than lightly coat them). A generous portion of the mushroom is served atop mixed greens with asparagus and cherry tomatoes in a balsamic vinaigrette. Slices of rosemary focaccia are a fitting accompaniment… so have a bite, and then donate the bread to your dining partner. The salad really is able to stand alone and offers quality, clean flavors. Grilled chicken would be a nice addition if you're looking to up the protein.

Located in the midst of the boutique-y hubbub of the Third Ward, the restaurant has a modern-yet-warm design that feels very casual-chic, just like the dinner menu. As for choosing what to drink at Swig... that's going to take some taste testing. Watch out for a cocktail review soon!

Swig
www.swigmilwaukee.com‎
217 N Broadway
Milwaukee, WI 53202
(414) 431-7944

*Dodge the Chilean sea bass.