It's the end of an era. Procter & Gamble Co. recently announced Thursday that it will phase out U.S. distribution of Max Factor, just in time for the company's 100th birthday.
Consumers here in these United States will bid adieu to the storied cosmetic line in early 2010. Procter & Gamble, which acquired Max Factor from Revlon Inc. in 1991, will then focus its efforts on promoting its popular CoverGirl brand.
Max Factor seems to have lot its luster for American women; though the company grosses $1.2 billion a year, most of these sales take place overseas. Of the 70 countries where Max Factor is sold—and will continue to be sold—Max Factor is the top-selling cosmetic line. Throughout the U.K., as well as in Russia, Max Factor remains a healthy No. 2 among makeup brands.
This is in contrast to lukewarm U.S. sales. Max Factor's popularity has waned so dramatically stateside that its sales have been reduced to the shelves of Wal-Mart and the odd drug store.
CoverGirl's domestic reception, on the other hand, has been encouraging to P&G. Sales of CoverGirl makeup have been on the rise for eight years; they are now approaching $1 billion a year.
IRRECONCILABLE DIFFERENCES
Why have Americans fallen out of love with Max Factor? It may have something to do with a difference of aesthetic. Every issue of Vogue is chock-full of glamour, but the U.S. version of the magazine and its European counterparts tend towards different brands of glamour.
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In U.S. Vogue, you tend to see more blondes, sporting softer and subtler makeup—in other words, the traditional image of the All-American girl next door. In fact, a smiling Cameron Diaz is the first thing you see at the website for the Condé Naste publication, urging visitors to subscribe now.
European editions of Vogue, on the other hand, seem to point to the fact that people “on the continent” prefer a more sophisticated look, marked by the dramatic color contrasts associated with old Hollywood, or a fashion-forward and edgy lack of contrast.
See if you agree with my assessment by comparing the 2008 December issues of U.S., U.K. and Russian Vogue (pictured above).
The U.S. version of the holiday issue features a picture of Jennifer Aniston, one of America's many blonde or blonde-highlighted sweethearts (Meg Ryan, Reese Witherspoon and Julia Roberts are also of this ilk). Aniston’s golden hair falls to her shoulders in a simple look that seems like any woman could achieve at home. Her red dress is sexy, but as for her makeup, nude tones predominate. She looks casual, healthy and approachable.
Russian Vogue from the same month features the perennially lovely Naomi Campbell, her dramatically made up face peeking through the hood of a white fur parka. Her lips are painted a deep plum color; liner has been used to create an impish Cupid’s bow. Campbell’s eyes are heavily lined in black. Eyebrow pencil has been used to create an exaggerated arch, like Elizabeth Taylor’s looked during the height of the Hollywood studio system.
In the simultaneous U.K. offering, Kate Moss reclines between satin sheets—red lips parted and blonde hair tousled—looking much like Marilyn Monroe in the boudoir shots taken during her famous last photo session. She looks much more like the girl in your husband’s bed than the girl next door.
CHOICE OF SPOKESWOMEN SPEAKS LOUDLY
In other words, if you had to call it one or the other, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss look like Max Factor women. Jennifer Aniston looks like a CoverGirl.
The difference is further demonstrated by the spokeswoman chosen to represent each brand. CoverGirl’s newest spokeswoman is Ellen DeGeneres. DeGeneres is blonde and favors subtle makeup. Her open lesbianism, tomboy aesthetic and the fact that she is a comedienne make her an unusual choice. It does not, however, make it an exotic choice. Ellen DeGeneres is not catwalk sophisticated. Instead, she is another girl next door, albeit the gay girl next store.
On the CoverGirl website, which is a cheery white highlighted by some neutrals and pink, longtime spokeswoman Drew Barrymore (again blonde, sweet, beautiful but down-to-earth) figures prominently. Singer Rhianna is another CoverGirl spokeswoman. In one campaign, with the fitting slogan “take off that mask,” her makeup is a symphony in neutrals and nudes, making her 21-year-old face look even fresher.
The Max Factor website has a more noir look. The color black predominates, relieved by primary toned images like gleaming lipstick in crayon-bright shades. In the first image of Max Factor’s willowy Brazilian spokesmodel, Giselle Bündchen, her blonde hair is parted to the side and falls in undulating waves a la ‘40s screen siren Veronica Lake.
Apparently, CoverGirl’s image and its motto—“easy breezy beautiful”—suits the casual attitude that the majority of American woman take toward style and beauty. Max Factor’s slogans, “makeup. maximized.” or “The make-up of make-up artists," denote a far more studied approach to beauty, which patently appeals to European women.
Procter & Gamble’s decision means that it will be a bit harder for U.S. fans to find Max Factor products. They won’t be on store shelves, unless they are older products being sold by overstock liquidators. It is likely that we will be able to order them online; the question is whether considerations like shipping will make it pricier.
In the meantime, many makeup aficianados are gearing up to stock up on their Max Factor faves. On her Stylelist blog, Jessica B. Matlin gives this advice:
Before the line vanishes in early 2010, I suggest you stock up on its 2000 Calorie Extreme Lash Plumper. The mascara delivers such lush, glamorous-looking lashes, McGrath told me Madonna even slipped a tube into her purse after the artist used it on her. I guess it was Max Factor's US swansong.
On Walletpop, makeup artist “OneHoo Knows” blogged an emotional eulogy about the make-up shake-up:
As a make up artist, I'm telling you this is devastating news. You won't find products that are on the same level as Max Factor. Not so much their eye shadows, but their foundations can give the ultimate flawless coverage. Don't even get me started on the 2000 Calorie Mascara. I can make it look like you're wearing luxurious false eyelashes every time. Cover Girl will never compare... It is truly a sad day for our industry, and I will be stocking up on their fine products.
Well, as the old saying goes, “Nothing is constant but change.”
And a lot has changed since Polish immigrant Max Factor, Sr. (born Faktorowicz) created the first foundation intended for use by screen actors in 1914. Factor subsequently became so synonymous with cosmetics that it is he who coined the word make-up.
If you’d like to pay your respects to Max Factor’s storied history, stop by The Hollywood Museum, which bills itself as being home to 10,000 real showbiz treasures. The museum, which is located at 1660 N. Highland Ave. in Los Angeles, is housed in the historic Max Factor building. Guests are invited to “visit the private beauty salons where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Max Factor transformed Lucille Ball into a redhead!”
If you’re a Max Factor fan, you may want to bring some Kleenex.
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i cannot stop reading your articles once i start! great, interesting articles!
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