Lovage: a taste of celery in the herb garden

Lovage has a distinct celery flavor

Do you love the taste of celery but are having trouble growing it? Try planting the herb lovage instead.

Lovage (Levisticum officinale) is a hardy perennial herb, which was quite popular during the Middle Ages in Europe. Herbalists used it primarily for medicinal purposes; i.e., as a diuretic and to alleviate jaundice, colic, various stomach problems and even used it for skin and eye problems. The roots and seeds were principally used for these purposes. In some cases, however, it also found its way into the kitchen as a substitute for celery. It was quite common in England; however, it is not a native of that country. It actually hails from the Mediterranean region. It has also been found growing wild in the south of France, northern Greece, and the Balkans.

This herb, which was so popular in the 14th century, is not as common in the modern-day herb or kitchen garden. This is a real shame, though. Lovage is an easy-to-grow, hardy perennial that deserves a place in the garden. As mentioned, it has a very pronounced celery flavor, which means the cook can introduce it into any dishes in which celery would normally be used. It is great with potatoes, especially potato salad. You can also use it in salads or any vegetable dishes, as well as in stuffings, soups, rice, and with various meat dishes. Lovage adds a lot of flavor to low-salt or no-salt diets, as well. There is another little trick that I have learned about using lovage. When the stems are allowed to get really large, they can be cut and used as straws, since they are hollow. This is great for tomato or vegetable drinks. You should try it with your favorite Bloody Mary recipe and be sure to garnish with the rather attractive leaves from your lovage plant.

Lovage is an umbelliferous plant, similar in looks to both the Garden and the Spanish Angelica. It prefers to be grown in full sun and is hardy to Zone 3. You need to make sure that the soil is rich, well-drained, and moist. It is easily started from seed; or, of course, you can purchase seedlings. You will also probably need only one plant in your garden. Lovage can grow to be as tall as 5-6 feet. Umbrels of yellow flowers usually form in mid-summer. If you do not wish to preserve the flowers and allow them to go to seed, you can prune them back and encourage a bushier growth. (When you do use your lovage and/or cut and bruise the leaves, you will also notice that it has a very strong aroma.) Lovage is quite an attractive plant in its own right, too. The leaves are a glossy dark green and opposite, compound. Their size decreases toward the top of the plant. Older leaves, however, do not have the flavor of the younger more tender leaves. They also tend to yellow with age, so regular pruning will help with the overall appearance of the plant. The leaves can be frozen for use in the winter months. You can also dry it, especially the seeds.

One last note: Lovage is also an excellent companion plant. It tends to promote better health in the plants with which it is planted.

With all that lovage has going for it, I have to wonder why it is not in more herb gardens. Mine has been a major part of mine for a number of years. Hopefully you will make it a part of yours.

For more information on lovage, read A Modern Herbal/Lovage and also see herbs2000.com