Garden to table: Fava beans

flowering favas

For whatever reason, most of us still mainly think of fava beans as Hannibal Lecter's preferred side dish for the liver of a census taker. I know exactly one gardener, in Berkeley, who plants them. He has never eaten one. When I asked why he planted a vegetable crop he had no interest in eating, he explained that he'd been taught to sow them as a winter cover crop, and that he tilled them under before the beans appeared. "I wouldn't know what to do with them anyway," he shrugged.

On the advice that they would help fix nitrogen in my undernourished soil, I tossed a few into one of my raised beds this winter. As they germinated, my first impression was that this, surely, was the magic bean for which Jack sold his cow (probably correct, as the beans -- technically a vetch -- are the only beans native to the Old World). No tiny, delicate micro-leaf, these: a large, pale, silver-green raft of pinnate leaves unfurled, righted itself, and took off for the winter sun. Anyone used to growing New World pole beans will marvel at the thumb-thick, squared-off, upright stalks of favas. The fragrant blossoms are white splashed with black. The pods that follow resemble very long, fat, fuzzy soybean pods. They're magnificent plants, one of the most eye-catching in my garden this year.

These magic beans have nourished Old World cultures from China to Egypt to Sicily for the last 6000 years or so.  Along with being ridiculously easy to grow and generous to soil, they're high in protein (note that like true beans, their protein is incomplete -- combine accordingly!) and fiber, zinc and folate. As a naturally rich source of Levodopa, they may be useful in treating Parkinson's Disease.

Favas are a cool-weather crop, and they're winding down by late May. Plan to plant a few, as Italians traditionally do, on All Soul's Day, November 2. In the meantime, they're available in markets. Their stay is brief. Make the most of it.

Here's the thing: making the most of fresh favas requires a little committment. As a culture, we tend not to be so enamored of foods with significant prep time. However, before you write them off, hear me out. Fresh fava beans must be shelled, then blanched, then peeled. Yes, peeled. They have a thick skin which can be anywhere from unpalatable to dangerous if you are one of the small percentage of people who suffer from favism (that's right, folks, fava beans even have their own -ism. But unlike Arugulism, which causes you to become hopelessly annoying, favism causes hemolytic anemia, So do me a favor and peel and cook the beans.) Sound like a lot of tedious work? Does it help at all if I replace the word "tedious" with the word "meditative?" Or "sociable?" Because truly, peeling a bowl of favas is a beautiful forced slow-down, and it's an excellent occupation for your ten year old, or the kitchen-haunting buddy or in-law who's always asking, "Can I help with something?" Yes, they can! Sit down, have a chat and a beverage, and peel beans. It's very easy, and it's surprisingly rewarding. Even for the convenience-minded there is something undeniably luxurious about taking the time to properly celebrate a seasonal delicacy. Just try it before you decide you don't have time.

Fresh favas are a natural companion to other May staples. Think peas, artichokes, and morels. Think asparagus, spring lamb, green garlic, beurre noisette. Think pecorino and fresh bread. They have a delectable buttery texture, and a unique flavor that's slightly nutty, slightly bitter, and very rich. Unlike some veggies, favas are exceedingly agreeable wine companions. Think beyond the Nice Chianti and try them with anything from a Tuscan Vernaccia to a rosato of Tempranillo to a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma, or even a big, loud Merlot. They can handle it.

The recipe below is simple and takes advantage of the flavors of late May. Vegetarians can simply omit the steaks.

 Za'atar-Spiced Strip Steak with Sauteed Spring Vegetables and Israeli Couscous

Prepare the Steaks:

4 12-oz New York Strip steaks, about 1" thick.
4-6 t za'atar spice
salt, pepper, and olive oil

Brush the meat with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and then sprinkle liberally with za'atar spice blend. Cover and refrigerate. (Can do a few hours ahead, but don't need to). Prep the veggies while the meat sits.

Prepare a charcoal grill, if using. (You can pan-sear and finish these in a 400 oven if desired). When grill is hot, place steaks over heat, turning once, total time about 10 minutes for medium rare. Tent with foil and let rest. While resting, assemble prepared vegetables (below).

Prepare the Vegetables

1 C fresh fava beans, shelled
2C asparagus spears, trimmed and sliced on the bias into 2" lengths
4 medium artichokes, peeled, trimmed, and quartered
1/2 c. baby carrots, trimmed
1 shallot, minced
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
1/4 c good olive oil
lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste

Blanch fava beans in boiling water approximately one minute; with a slotted spoon, transfer to ice water to stop cooking. Blanch asparagus in same water, about 90 seconds, then transfer to a second bowl of ice water. Parboil artichokes until fork-tender; remove to ice water as well.

Once the steaks are grilled and resting, put olive oil in large saute pan over medium heat. when hot, add garlic and shallot, tossing and taking care not to scorch. add artichokes and carrots and saute 2-3 minutes. add asparagus. When asparagus is crisp-tender, add fava beans, toss briefly, and remove from heat. Salt and pepper to taste.

Cook Israeli couscous according to package directions (it takes less than 10 minutes). You can start it when the meat goes onto the grill. Keep covered until serving.

Mound couscous on plates, spooning veggie mixture over top. Slice steaks and fan slices over vegetables. Sprinkle with additional za'atar spice if wished.

 

For more info: Learn more about fava beans' nutritional benefits. Learn how to grow them. Learn how to cook them. Discover wine pairings.