Olivier Desaintmartin and Zinc Bistro: profile of a master chef in Philadelphia

Authenticity is defined in several ways:  Genuine.  Real.  Not false or copied.  In the case of Zinc Bistro and chef/owner Olivier Desaintmartin, all of these apply.  From the 1929 zinc bar to the hearty cooking inspired by his mother, every detail of the restaurant is true to form.  In this 3-part profile, we’ll explore both the immutable chef and his restaurant, and taste a delicious example of their truism: Canard à la Presse.

“My love of cooking comes from my mother” begins the conversation of his source of inspiration.  As the chef warmly recalls her home-made puff pastry, ice creams and hearty stews, it’s easy to discover what first drew him to his craft.  He learned the spirit of his country’s cuisine at her side, and she remains his toughest critic: “if I cook for her and it doesn’t smell good when it comes on her plate… she’ll take one small taste and say no, that’s not it.  If the beurre blanc is not right, if the fish is not cooked perfectly, if it’s dry, if it’s not salted properly, she’ll push it away”. 

 With these exacting standards as his foundation, he left for Paris and hotel school in 1976.  There he studied every aspect of the hotel trade: service, wines, typing, and of course, cooking.  After 2 years he chose the kitchen as his area of focus because “it’s where I felt the most comfortable”.  He was scheduled to continue his apprenticeship at a hotel in Corsica, but was instead referred to famed pastry chef Gaston Lenôtre, where he spent 5 years learning chocolate, pulled sugar, pastries, candies and more in the master’s 2 restaurants, 7 shops and cooking school. 

 As it was customary for top chefs to exchange their most promising apprentices with their colleagues, Olivier was sent to Michelin 3 star chef Paul Bocuse in Lyon for 6 months.  He then went to Michel Guérard, the chef he reveres as his mentor.  For 3 years he trained under the nouvelle cuisine maestro, admiring his devotion to his work, the beauty of his creations and the deep respect he imparted.  He shared with Olivier an emotion for the trade that can only come from the heart – an inner quality that cannot be taught, but is in the soul of every true chef.

 Next: the journey to Philadelphia