Better than a course in architectural history: visiting the cathedral of Notre Dame de Strasbourg

The kings of France and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire gazed down on us as we walked through a forest of rose-colored columns. Each person who pushed their way inside invariably gasped at what they saw. At 10:45 precisely, a clear "ding, ding, ding" sliced through the brouhaha bouncing off cavernous walls. The grim reaper had just tolled his bell for the old man.

Once you've deciphered the intricacies of the Gothic facade, a visit inside Notre Dame de Strasbourg will push your limits of cathedral appreciation. The ceiling of the nave stretches so high that you must tilt your head all the way back to take it all in. The stained glass windows blaze with color while the stripes of the rose sandstone columns exaggerate the depth of the nave. Expect to spend at least an hour if you want to really appreciate the medieval craftsmanship.

Inside, the stylistic contrast grabs your attention. The main parts of the cathedral soar to the sky with their graceful, fine columns. The apse (the part surrounding the altar), however, bears down on the visitor with its brute Roman style, gilded mosaics and voluptuous curves. A strange contrast indeed, that the cathedral's history explains.

The cathedral was built on the foundations of a Roman-style basilica constructed in 1015. Although a fire destroyed the original structure, the apse and the crypt were spared. During the reconstruction, architects from Chartres introduced Strasbourg builders to Gothic styles. They then added Gothic elements to the salvaged Roman parts of the original basilica, giving the finished cathedral its bipolar style.

Before approaching the apse, another treasure pulls your vision heavenwards. The 14th-century organ, stained in red, green, and blue, combines an abundance of gold leafing with its deep colors. Curious characters -- a herald, Samson with a lion, and a baker with a large pretzel -- add a touch of whimsy to the imposing instrument. To make mass even more fun, the characters dance when the organ is played and could even be given their own voice. The automatons sometimes even ranted at the priest as he gave his homily, much to the amusement of medieval churchgoers.

11:15. Another "ding, ding, ding" cuts through the tourist chatter. The grim reaper tolls again, this time for a young man. An announcement asks visitors to empty the cathedral. Paying visitors will soon watch the astronomical clock, which will come to life with the movement of its cast of automatons, including Death.

Practical information

The Cathedral of Strasbourg is open for visits from 10 a.m. to 11:20 a.m. and from 12:35 p.m. to 7 p.m. It closes midday for the admission-charged performance of the astronomical clock. Sundays, the cathedral is open for visits from 12:35 p.m. to 7 p.m.

For more information on visiting Strasbourg, the Strasbourg Tourism Office will be happy to help you plan your stay. The Alsace Tourism Office can also give you ideas on extending your visit beyond the city limits.

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