Bangkok 54 off of Columbia Pike in Arlington has topped lists for the best Thai food in metro DC over the last several years. Touted among critics for its authenticity and contemporary decor, the restaurant has responded in turn with elevated prices for standbys such as Phad Thai and Chicken Satay. After several years in business, and with a crop of new Thai restaurants making their mark, Bangkok 54 deserves a fresh look.
On a recent evening the dining room was only a third full, yet servers struggled to keep up with diners' requests. An order for Tom ka soup, a traditional broth made with coconut milk and lemongrass, arrived instead as a bright red consomme. When returned to the kitchen, the original bowl was simply doctored up by the addition of some coconut milk rather than remade to its original recipe. Crispy springrolls, described on the menu as stuffed with shredded vegetables, were a thin encasement of shredded cabbage with little else for substance or flavor.
Two quintessential Thai entrees, green curry and Phad Thai, were equally lackluster and underwhelming. The curry, typically compiled with tender Asian eggplant, arrived with one small adornment of the nightshade atop what was a bowl of saucy shredded chicken. The Phad Thai was as meager in its topping of crushed peanuts which amounted to the size of a dime, and had no requisite lime juice to use for flavor enhancement. In both instances, the complex aromatics that typically characterize Thai cuisine, along with discernibly fresh ingredients, fell short.
To make matters worse, service was at times inattentive and towards the end of the meal, rushed. No sooner had chopsticks landed before the plates were immediately whisked back to the kitchen and replaced with a bill for the meal. At an adjoining table, frustrated patrons resorted to leaving the table and speaking with the bartender directly when their server repeatedly misunderstood a drink order.
Given its complacency, Bangkok 54 is no longer the embodiment of stellar Thai food it once was. While it passes for mediocre ethnic fare, it leaves a lot to be desired for those seeking a truly authentic, inspired and rewarding South East Asian dining experience.
Comments
I agree. There is an excellent and often overlooked Thai restaurant down the street called Rincome. Don't let the location or outside look fool you (it's in the same building as a Days Inn). Inside, the decor is a mix of 70s lounge and rain forest (weird but it works), and most importantly the food is outstanding and full of flavor. I've never had a bad meal there and take all my out-of-town guests. The staff is more than attentive and friendly. A must-try!
I appreciate the review of Bankok 54 (I've dined there two or three times with mexed results). As a twenty year Thai afficiando though, I can tell you with absolute certainty that the best Thai restaurant in Northern VA and probably one of the best in the country is Busara @ Tysons. Other locations in DC and Reston may be fine too but the Tysons locale is consistently exceptional.
For a true test order the fried calamari appetizer, always exquisitely tasty due to the fact that the squid is marinated for 24 hours resulting in a softer less chewy texture before preparing with the light panko coating. The house specialty Crispy Whole Flounder entree can't be beat anywhere when prepared with the chili garlic sauce. The duck dish - Gang Ped Yang and lamb - Soka Lamb Curry are two other examples of authentic Thai presentations that never disappoint. As an added bonus the service is always prompt and reliable. This should be every true Thai fans' first dining choice in the DC area.
I have lived in Arlington for last 8 years and had not been here until I saw your post. I enjoyed the restaurant and would go again.
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