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Roasting the turkey

 

You probably don't want to hear this, but there are numerous options for cooking your turkey. Once it's thawed (assuming you bought a frozen turkey) and brined, the time to commit yourself has finally come.

Ultimately, you want a moist turkey, cooked all the way through. Various methods have arisen over the years - low heat, high heat, barbecuing, and deep frying. I've had wonderful turkey roasted in a barbecue (the high heat produces a very dark skinned, very moist bird) and deep fat frying was one of the more bizarre trends that popped up a few years ago, but for now, I'm going to stick with oven roasting.

Like that barbecued bird, high heat cooks in less time and produces wonderful results. As Barbara Kafka points out in "Roasting: A Simple Art", high heat bastes the turkey with its own fat, meaning you don't have to. High heat also roasts the bird, while lower heat comes closer to steaming than actual roasting. Both methods can produce a flavorful moist turkey, particularly if you've already brined it.

Whether you go with high or low heat, there a few things to keep in mind. When you put the bird in the oven, place it so its feet are facing the back where it's hottest. Darker meat takes longer to cook, and the concentrated heat at the back ensures the legs are done at the same time as the rest of the roast. You're also better off not stuffing the turkey. Not only does stuffing the bird increase the cooking time, you also run the risk of food poisoning. If the stuffing doesn't reach 165 degrees when the rest of the bird is ready to go, you run the risk of bacteria-seasoned dressing. It makes for a memorable meal, but probably not in the way for which you're hoping.Fill the cavity with herbs, onions, or lemon halves, instead. Finally, both methods also benefit from allowing the bird to come to room temperature before you put it in the oven, cutting down the cooking time considerably.

For high heat, preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Make sure, too, your oven is clean. High temperature roasting produces smoke, anyway, and a dirty oven is going to produce a lot of smoke. In any case, you'll want to run the fan or leave a window open. Season the bird (I season both the cavity and the skin) and pop him into the oven in a roasting pan large enough to allow air flow around the turkey. Unstuffed, a 15-pound bird should cook in about two hours, and a 20-lb in three. If the turkey starts to become too dark before it's finished cover the top with aluminum foil, but don't encase the bird. You'll end up producing steam and losing the crisp skin.

If you opt for a lower temperature, preheat your oven to 325 degrees, allowing about 20 minutes per pound. With lower temperatures, you'll need to baste the bird every half hour or so, using the fat from the bottom of the pan or butter. Another option is to lay several strips of bacon over the top of the turkey, allowing the fat to seep into the bird while it's roasting, but you'll still need to baste it.

Whether you use the high or low heat option, the bird isn't done until its juices are running clear and the legs move freely when you jiggle them. The internal temperature of the turkey should read 165 degrees when measured at the thickest portions. I typically pull the bird out at 160 degrees and let the residual heat finish the cooking process. Since you'll need to let the bird sit for 20 to 30 minutes before carving (allowing the juices to seep back into the flesh and solidifying the meat), it will finish cooking during that time.

That's it. I've armed you with information. Go buy your turkey.

 

 

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Food Examiner

Eric Burkett, who's been eating nearly all his life, is a professional chef and former journalist, cooking and writing in San Francisco.

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