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France's Ethos Paris puts down roots in U.S. and sets ground-up example for eco & ethical fashion


Photo courtesy Ethos Paris

The green fashion movement is growing. Designers and labels address various elements of eco and social responsibility, some more comprehensively than others. Taking what appears to be an unusually holistic and detail-oriented approach, Ethos Paris operates by a formal charter outlining the company’s mandates, values, and objectives, not only for traditionally green ideas like sourcing organic materials and eco-friendly manufacturing, but for a whole range of business, trade, sustainability, vocational, and educational practices.  In  themselves, these would make for an attractive company doing business in a beneficial manner. Without generating stylish, durable and fashion-forward apparel, however, Ethos would be another NGO and not a Paris fashion house. With apparel being retailed out of some 200 stores across Europe, and a growing presence in the States that Portland saw punctuated last fall with an impressive showing at Portland Fashion Week, this fact has never been lost on Ethos Paris founders Ann & Leslie Leroux. I looked into some of the principles & practices underlying Ethos' way of doing business, and got a chance to ask Leslie Leroux some questions about the evolution of Ethos Paris and its comprehensive approach to business, and fashion.


The seeds of style. One of many organic seed
varieties used to create natural dyes for organically
produced Ethos Paris apparel. Photo: Leslie Leroux

Examiner.com:  What first turned you on to fashion?
Leslie/Ethos Paris:  We didn’t really choose fashion per se. We wanted to create an alternative business model in an industry that we felt (and still feel) needs change. ... My Mother and I are both creative and the idea of designing clothes didn’t intimidate us. We also wanted to deal in products of first necessity: food, shelter, clothing… and thus decided we would create a line of ethical garments; ethical meaning socially and economically sustainable, and… ecological. Today, Ethos Paris is a fashion house with great designers (Johanna Riplinger and Katrin Serres Berrisch) and fashion is our passion!

Examiner.com:    I’m a believer that market-based advocacy is one important way to succeed in greening the fashion industry. The physical garment itself appearing on the rack might be close to the last step in the business cycle, but the fashion appeal of it is still first in the minds of most consumers. Do you have any feeling about how much of your business is coming from consciously eco-minded retailers & consumers, and how much is just people and buyers saying “wow that looks 'delicious!'”


Designer Johanna Riplinger works with Ethos Paris partners
in India. Photo: Leslie Leroux

Leslie/Ethos Paris: In the beginning, all of our customers were eco minded consumers, many of them consciously purchasing a maximum of their needs from ... eco and fair trade sources.  We knew that we could always count on these buyers as long as we kept to our goals regarding sustainability. But our real challenge was in getting mainstream retailers to try our products alongside the popular brand names and styles. [W]e had to have a product that could withstand comparison on style, quality and price, and then bring in the big plus of eco-fair trade as a clincher.


Ethos Paris Spring/Summer 2010 at Portland Fashion
Week. Photo: Ed Kavishe\Fashion Wire Press

Examiner.com: What can people look forward to finding on the racks this Spring from Ethos Paris?
Leslie/Ethos Paris: We really love dresses and feminine tops!  At least 15 different tops and 10 dresses are included in each collection.  Most of our women’s styles are designed to bring out a woman’s femininity which make the designs very “à la mode”, fun and sexy.  You’ll also see our more classical line that includes slacks, button down shirts and jackets.  Even though the fabrics are diverse, from light flowy voile to structured cottons, the collection is very comprehensive, created for maximum mixing and matching. We even have a line of herbal dyed prints that matches up with the solids – super eco!

Setting out in 2002 with fair-trade in mind, the Lerouxs initially recognized what they felt was an absurd distinction being made by many companies between fair-trade and green initiatives. In a traditional definition of “fair-trade,” companies who ensure that suppliers & growers providing their raw or processed materials are being paid fair prices and wages meet the definition. In the case of growers & processors of natural fibers and textiles for apparel, it made little sense to the Leroux’s that “fair-trade” labels could be applied while simultaneously selling and encouraging the use of toxic pesticides and chemicals, promoting unsustainable practices that damage the land and local ecologies, poison water tables, and expose producers & their families to all the associated health risks. With this in mind, the Lerouxs set out with both fair-trade and organic standards woven into their business model.


SS/2010 Photo courtesy Ethos Paris

Examiner.com: I see in your Charter and history that along with fair trade practices and the avoidance of sweat-shop labor, you have a mission of fostering disappearing skill-sets, educating and creating employment in the green fashion industry, and helping partners develop sustainable practices through training and investment.  If I’m an interested consumer, or a designer or label looking to replicate a sustainability model, what do these parts of your mission actually look like on the ground? Who are these relationships with?

Leslie/Ethos Paris: It’s really important for us to be consistent in all our actions. Obviously, we can’t be excellent on every front, but we work constantly to improve our “ethical footprint”.  Our raw materials have to be organic or equivalent.  We do not jump on new fads like the recent viscose fibers (bamboo, kelp, nettle, etc.) until we are absolutely convinced that they are totally eco.  We don’t move material from one country to another because we are firmly committed to allowing the added value on our products to be produced in the country of origin. We have an extensive training program with many student interns from business schools working with us as part of their curriculum.  A number of our employees were hired as a follow-up to their internship.  All this and more, takes Ethos towards our goal: to be a model of alternative business practice in the garment industry.  Ethical, creative and profitable.


Leslie and Ann Leroux on first trip to Nepal
Photo courtesy Ethos Paris

Examiner.com: Prior to showing in Portland Fashion Week had you been here before?  What did you think of our fair city? Did you get a chance to do any exploring?
Leslie/Ethos Paris:  Yes.  My husband and I have been to Portland with our children many times.  We have good friends there and we really enjoy the city.  We like the Rose festival, the OMSI  and the  many wonderful restaurants and galleries.  I see Portland as a dynamic and progressive city, so when I  got the invitation to the Portland Fashion Week, I didn't hesitate!

Shop Ethos Paris at their online boutique.

Ethos Paris will show this month at The International Fashion Tradshow at The Train*New York, February 20-22, 2010

For more info: Ethos Paris US, Ethos Paris France, Portland Fashion Week, Ethos Paris eco and fair-trade certifications and endorsements, Visit Fiber Organics for useful information on the meaning of various eco-friendly, sustainable, organic, and fair trade labels, The Train*New York

 

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Slideshow: Ethos Paris

Photo courtesy Ethos Paris

Slideshow: Ethos Paris

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Portland Fashion News Examiner

Fashion took center stage for Chris in the early 2000's when he began meeting Portland's surprisingly diverse and sophisticated cadre of fashion...

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