Is organic food elitist?

Status symbol or an emblem of the people? Photo: usda.gov

The rumors are true: buying organic is elitist. That’s the word in a recent San Francisco Chronicle column by nutrition expert Marion Nestle.

Don’t fling that pesticide-free carrot from your hybrid Lexus in the hopes of blending with the people, though. To do so would be as perilous as college girls of the ‘60s extinguishing their C cups.*

In this FAQ piece, “'Certified Organic' may not be 100%,” Nestle explains why elitism in organics may not be such a bad thing.

Also: thought high prices were the fault of organic farmers? Nestle says think again. And costs should be coming down soon.

Here is an excerpt:

Q: Aren't organics elitist? People can't buy organic foods if they aren't available at an affordable price.

A: I once heard Eric Schlosser answer a similar question aimed at his book, "Fast Food Nation." He pointed out that social movements have to begin somewhere and that several began with elites but ended up helping the poor and disenfranchised - the civil rights, environmental and women's movements, for example.

I would add the organic movement to this list. It has already forced mainstream food producers to start cutting down on pesticides and to raise farm animals more humanely. As the supply of organic foods increases, and the Wal-Marts of the world sell more of them, organics should become more democratic.

But please don't blame organic producers for the high prices. Until the latest farm bill, which has a small provision for promotion of organic agriculture, organic farmers received not one break from the federal government. In contrast, the producers of corn, soybeans, wheat and cotton continue to get $20 billion or so a year in farm subsidies.

…Dealing with the elitism implied by the higher cost of organics means doing something about income inequities. If we want elected representatives to care more about public health than corporate health, let's work to remove the corruption from election campaign contributions.

…The organic gardens at the White House and USDA send an important signal that the way we grow food makes a difference. Let's hope they also symbolize a new era in agricultural policies, one that unites the letter and spirit of the organic movement.

Reading through Nestle’s thoughts, I started to realize that replacing the word “organic” with “farmers market” would create an equally true statement.

Sure, you could drop $5 on a loaf of bread and $6 on a quart of cucumbers at one of DC’s farmers markets, but there is another side. Markets now serve low-income residents of Ward 8, H Street, Mount Pleasant, and the Dupont Circle area by accepting Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program coupons, commonly known as food stamps. Several markets also give extra produce to corner stores and nonprofits.

Read on for more on how Nestle sees the state of organic, and more on the myths and facts of organics. Try thinking of these concepts in terms of farmers markets, too, for a whole new meaning.

*A closer look reveals that bra-burning was not really a part of the women’s movement back then, but it sure makes a great image.