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LA Comfort & Soul Food Restaurant Examiner

Ms. Peaches brings southern cuisine to the heart of North Hollywood

May 5, 4:45 PMLA Comfort & Soul Food Restaurant ExaminerCrystal Johnson
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In the North Hollywood Arts District on the 5400 block of Lankershim there is a little restaurant formerly called Angela's which now goes by the name, Miss Peaches. The establishment by it former name has been in the area for 10 years. The restaurant has the same owner but this time he named his establishment after his paternal grandmother. There is a lot of family history which goes into many of the dishes. Connell Moss owns and operates Miss Peaches. He hails from Chesapeake, VA. When you step into the restaurant he hopes you feel like you have stepped into his kitchen. You might feel like you have walked into your grandma's house.

The home-style environment translates into some pretty good home-style cooking. I ordered the smothered fried chicken, yams, and collard greens. I immediately noticed the absence of meat in the side dishes. Moss prides himself on cooking side dishes that are devoid of any meat added. Vegetarians can feel comfortable dining here. Furthermore, for the person who feels prohibited from enjoying southern cuisine can know that this food is made with their health in mind while not compromising taste. In the past few years Moss has lost 100 pounds. He has worked on finding the right spices to make sure his customers don't miss any flavor. My lunch guest who happens to have blood pressure problems appreciatively said after eating the meal, “This guy is trying keep us around.”

With the owner, my guest and I having generations of Virginia roots in common, could Moss's cuisine stand up to a jury of his peers to pass the southern cooking done right test in the areas black-eyes, collard greens, and corn bread? The answer is yes. If you are going to remove pork from the soul food experienc then the cuisine at Ms. Peaches is what it should taste like. The perfect beverage to accompany should be none other than sweet tea. This sweet tea tastes like my Grandma Josephine's concoction. Though she is no longer with us, it tastes like should could have served up my glass of sweet tea. The macaroni and cheese was good but a bit creamier than I prefer. The catfish is cooked in cornmeal and barely salted. At the table near mine, a couple was enjoying at batch of crinkle cut sweet potato fries; however, instead of serving it with ketchup it is served with honey. Moss believes honey brings out a better taste to compliment the sweet potato fries.

This place is also just a great spot to dine for dessert. Red Velvet is a popular tradition selection. In fact, this cake was featured as on Grey's Anatomy a few years ago as a wedding cake choice for a popular couple that didn't make it to the alter. Now, Angelenos if you go in expecting a Ralph's Supermarket red velvet cake then you will find the flavor experience different. Ralph brims with cherry extract. The restaurant's cake has more of a buttery and nutty flavor. The sock-it-to me cake is also among the more popular cakes. It is extremely moist and flavorful. The gooey butter cake is divine. It tastes similar to cheese cake and would be my pick for in the "A" for originality choice. The sweet potato pie is among the better sweet potato pies which I have tasted. It is smooth and tasty. However, the dessert that beats all is only served on the weekends. We could not get enough of the banana pudding. It is seems like cruel and unusual punishment that something that good should be left only to weekend consumption. The wafers are crumbled into to the pudding and it tastes more like a bread pudding. The irony is that I don't like bananas but this was hands down was the best dessert. Gooey Butter cake rounds the corner for a close second.


 

For more info: Miss Peaches, 5643 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, (818) 760-4924.

 

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