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What a day for a perfumista this was! I had the glorious pleasure of meeting visiting perfume-loving friends for a quick sniffathon in Midtown Manhattan. The weather was warm enough to go without a coat, so I could roll up my sleeves for maximum fragrance-testing space...just in case a sweet SA (sales assistant) would offer me a spritz of something fabulous. It was worth the anticipation, because the new Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris line just launched at Bergdorf Goodman today, and the lovely SA did in fact spray me with the absolutely intoxicating APOM (A Peace of Me) pour Femme. I will keep my impressions brief, since I intend on studying my take home sample more thoroughly over the next few weeks, but in short, this is the stuff. All of us went gaga over it. It's an orange blossom blend, heady, fresh and sumptuous at once, almost a very high quality Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Mâle (by the same perfumer) and Jean Paul Gaultier Classique (the original feminine version which had become a favorite over the summer). I could say it also reminded me of MDCI Enlevement au Serail, although that one is much more animalic. The creation of APOM pour Femme is said to have been inspired by the perfumer's trip to Lebanon. I'd call APOM pour Femme a Floral, as floral as floral can be, but its sultry sensuality lends itself to being on the Oriental side as well. I detect no obvious musk in it, so often jarring in otherwise beautiful compositions, but somehow it has a deep, almost broodingly complex musky-incensey tone to the dry down, when the orange blossom has taken on a wine-like, rosy quality, leaving my skin smelling like it's been relentlessly kissed. Ah, but it's a sublimely sexy scent.
In the same line, I quickly sniffed Lumiere Noire pour Femme on a paper strip; this is a velvetty rose-patchouli unlike any I've ever smelled (almost oud-like). Again, no obvious musk - I thought it was an exquisite scent, sharp notes composed to expose no hard edges, earthy with a bit of spice. I preferred APOM, but my thoughts could change if I actually try this on skin one day. I would have stayed and tried them all, but I had to run. All in all, good company and scents made for one fabulous, unforgettable New York experience! Meet the perfumer Francis Kurkdjian at Bergdorf Goodman today, Saturday October 10, 2009, at The Women's Store, Beauty Level.
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