Rock climbing Transformer at Static Wall

June 11, 8:58 AMSalt Lake City Outdoor Recreation ExaminerJared Hargrave

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Matt Walker climbs at the start of Transformer.

Static Wall, located in the ever popular Storm Mountain Picnic Area, is a good chance to get away from the crowds lining up to climb the easier routes in the area. There are only three climbs on the wall, and unless you are a world class 5.13 climber, then Transformer is the only option.

Transformer is a 5.8 sport climb that is classic Big Cottonwood quartzite. Large, blocky holds and slick, slanting feet comprise the route. But despite the abundance of holds, the difficulty is found in the fact that the wall is vertical and the bolts are widely spaced. One section between the second and third bolt is a mind game as a fall could go to the ground. Luckily the climbing in that spot isn't tough, but clipping that third bolt is still a “thank God” moment.

The climb is also long, so at least a 60 meter rope is needed. There are seven bolts on the climb and chain anchors at the top, so 9 quick draws are needed.

Overall, Transformer is a fun climb that will pump the forearms. It's also a good lead climb for aspiring 5.8 leaders and is a desirable place to set up a top rope for the less experienced. And when you reach the top and anchor in, be sure to take in the sweet view of Storm Mountain across the canyon.

To get to the Static Wall and Transformer, park on the road across from the Storm Mountain Fee Area and walk through the picnic sites. Cross the river and a flat grassy spot to a noticeable trail that goes up into the trees on a talus slope. Stay right as going left will lead to the Bumblebee Wall. Once at the Static Wall, Transformer is the obvious bolted route in the middle of the cliff.