Sake - Japanese rice wine explored

The Usual Suspects: A lineup of my sake friends at RA sushi.

There are few topics in the drinking world that I find myself unable to discuss. I have brewed my own beer, worked in the family winery, served every beverage imaginable in the bars of New Orleans and even managed to ingest the perilously potent poitín of Ireland. However, being a good intellectual, I realize there is always something more for me to learn, and I'm always thirsty for more knowledge and (also being a good drunk) more booze...

This is how I recently found myself deep in the bowels of RA for an introduction to the wide world of sake.

First off, two very quick notes:

1. RA is a relatively new, but high-end, entry on the Baltimore sushi scene, located in Harbor East. (As far as I know, there are no actual bowels within.)
2. Sake is a japanese rice wine which, at least in Baltimore, is rarely served outside the sushi scene.

Now, back to the show.

Walking into the restaurant, I was met up front by Amy, who had arranged the event, and led to a table near the bar. The atmosphere was upscale and metropolitan, a shade on the dark side (which I like) but not pretentious... just a little more sophisticated than your usual neighborhood sushi joint. Definitely a nice setting for the occasion. So figuring we should get some food in our bellies before the drinking began, we proceeded to devour a selection of RA's delicious Viva Las Vegas sushi rolls and Chili Ponzu Yellowtail sashimi. Really good stuff, yet I digress... this article is about drinking, after all. Anyway, once we had eaten, we were joined by the manager, Bryan, who began the lesson. First, he discussed the history and production of sake, which involves polishing each individual grain of rice to rid the drink of impurities... quite a task before the advent of automation, I imagine. Then he got into the different varieties and styles that they offered, and that's when the fun began. Once we started with the tasting, it was like turning on a light. My previous experiences with this liquor had been limited to a smattering of the cheapest hot carafes on the menu and the occasional sake bomb. With the opening of the first chilled bottle, this was definitely turning out to be an educational experience. But there was so much to learn, it's best if I break it up a bit. Here is just a sample of the knowledge gained that night:

Serving Sake

• Sake is best served chilled, like a white wine. It is occasionally served hot either a) because it's cold outside, or b) simply to mask a lackluster flavor (usually done with the cheaper versions).
• Sake may be served in several ways, but at this tasting it was poured into a small glass (slightly larger than shot-glass sized), within a masu box... a small square wooden serving cup. Allowing the sake to overflow into the box is customary to show generosity, and drinking the excess sake straight from the masu box is expected (as if I needed encouragement).
• Also, tradition dictates that one should not pour their own sake. Let your host or server pour it for you. I had absolutely no problem with this part...

Types of Sake (does not represent all possible styles or grades, but a few common varieties)

• Junmai - The first grade of premium, pure rice sake, this is a step up from typical table sake and should probably not be served warm.
• Junmai ginjo - A higher grade, this is made using rice which has been polished down to less than 60% of its original weight.
• Junmai daiginjo - The highest grade, made with rice polished to less than 50% of its original weight, this is the top of the line (and sadly, one I have yet to try).
• Nigori - This distinction doesn't refer to the quality, but rather to sake that is only partially filtered, leaving sediment in the bottom of the bottle. This is shaken before serving, lending a cloudy hue and a creamy feel to the liquor that is actually quite sweet and tasty.

Fun Facts

• Sake can be categorized, much like wine, in differing degrees of dryness. To start off, try one that is less dry to get used to the flavor.
• Alcohol content of sake is generally in the 14-19% range, just a tad stronger than regular wine.
• One of the sakes that I tried was "sparkling" sake... carbonated, like a champagne. Pretty good, if you ask me.
• The traditional Japanese toast when drinking sake is "kampai"!

As for my personal tasting experience, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Of course, it helped that I was able to learn from an expert like Bryan. Under his guidance, I "sampled" the regular stuff, the good stuff, the dry stuff, the unfiltered stuff, and yes, even the sparkling stuff. All of these offered a little something different, and proved (to me at least) that knowing a thing or two about sake goes a long way toward improving one's opinion of it. Much like the western wines we know and love, the individuality of each makes for a diverse palette of options when choosing one to accompany your sushi... or just to help you get over that long week at work.

But don't take my word for it. Go now, out into the world, and use this new knowledge to explore a little sake for yourself. And if you happen to swing by RA on your way, try the Kizakura Pure and tell them the Drunken Intellectual sent you.

Not that my name will get you anything... but hey, maybe they'll realize you're looking to learn a bit yourself and lend you a hand. It worked for me!

And maybe, just this one time, I can use my powers for good...

Mark Burlet
Drunken Intellectual